Input Shaft Assembly

The following picture is of the input shaft from my '91 WC T5 transmission and the associated parts.  The bearings and blocking ring on the left are the original parts.  The parts on the right are from the Ford Racing (M-7000-A) rebuild kit.

The bearings and blocker ring supplied in the kit are identical to those originally used with one exception (more on this in a minute).  Only the front bearing has a part number on it.  The original and replacement bearings are Timken LM48548's. 

The blocker rings are the one part which seem slightly different.  The new one is in the picture below on the left with the original on the right.  The inside surface of each is rough.  If you view the full size version of the picture, you will see that original has a small groove through the center of the rough surface all the way around.  The new piece does not. 

This ring slides onto the back of the input shaft.  The rough portion fits perfectly against the polished looking cone at the back.  Since this cone fits the contour of the ring perfectly, I don't think the center portion of the old part was wore down.  This appears to be a slight change in design.

Cleaning and Disassembly of T5 Transmission

I worked a little each night this past week to disassemble the transmission.  I checked each of the gears as I disassembled the transmission.  Only the reverse gear had much wear.  However, there was a fair amount of fine metal particles stuck to the magnet in the bottom of the transmission case.

The main case, tailshaft, and top cover are empty and completely clean.  I've not cleaned the gear clusters.  I left the gear clusters assembled and wrapped in plastic bags.  I'll clean the gears as I disassemble the clusters for the rebuild process.  This will keep the arrangement of components fresh on my mind for reassembly. 

I don't have enough money saved up to rebuild and install the transmission.  My focus for now will be on rebuilding the transmission.  While I don't have much money for the entire project, I don't want to try to get by with a cheap rebuild kit or by not replacing items which obviously need to be replaced.

This morning, I purchased a steel front bearing retainer (Ford Racing M-7050-A) and a rebuild kit (Ford Racing M-7000-A).  I also purchased a new Tremec reverse gear (Tremec 1352-584-008).  These should be all the items I need to complete the rebuild of the transmission and seal it off until I can afford the parts to mount it into the Mustang.

If all of the parts arrive this week, I'll start the rebuild of the transmission this weekend.  There are numerous bearings which need to be pressed into place.  I don't have a press so I'll either buy one or find a shop to do the job for me.  This is the main task which might cause the rebuild to drag out beyond this one weekend.

I'll be using the T5 bellhousing to install the transmission.  I'll need to save up for a block plate, new fulcrum, transmission crossmember, and a new driveshaft yoke.  While I have the original shifter, I really want to purchase a new one with shift stops.  I'm hoping to find one used which is in good condition so I'm not spending $150-$200 on a shifter. 

New T5 Transmission & Bellhousing

I found a listing for a T5 transmission and bellhousing on Craigslist this week.  I started exchanging emails with the owner and ended up buying it this evening.  I purchased the transmission, bellhousing, and Energy Suspension mount for $300.

The transmission has the original tag showing the number 13-52-199.  This indicates the transmission was original to a '91 5.0 Mustang.  The transmission is rated at 300 ft/lbs and has the following gear ratios:
1 - 3.35
2 - 1.99
3 - 1.33
4 - 1.00
5 - 0.68

This is compared to the current ratios in my 3 speed toploader:
1 - 2.99
2 - 1.75
3 - 1.00

I started taking apart the transmission tonight to look at the gears.  I don't see any problems with the gears.  The fluid had already been drained.  What was left in the bottom does seem to have some very small metal particles but they are so small they could be from normal wear.

I don't have much money to work on rebuilding the internals but I'm going to go ahead and clean everything up to rebuild it when the funds are available. 

Waking from Hibernation

The temperature this weekend reach the 70's.  I've not drive the Mustang in a couple of months and decided this weekend was the perfect time.

I went and got it inspected as the inspection expired at the end of January.  I did not check anything before going which was likely not smart as things have a tendancy to stop working when you least expect it.  However, I did not have any issues with the inspection.  Two of the three guys working at the inspection station were taking pictures of my motor which was nice but strange at the same time.

After driving around a while, I reached 500 miles since engine break-in.  I changed the oil using another 5 quarts of Brad Penn 10w30.  I used a Wix filter this time but I purchased a few Fram filters not long ago on a buy one get one free program.  I don't think the Fram is as good of quality as the Wix filters so I might change once I run out of the Fram's I purchased.

I'm still having a little trouble with my air/fuel mixture.  The Holley 570 came with size 54 front jets.  I'm currently running size 58's in the front.  However, I still seem to be running a little lean when just cruising (15.0 a/f).  I expected the previous few jet changes to make the difference but I guess not.  If this does not have a meaningful change, I'm honestly tempted to junk this carburetor and buy a new one.

I've not been updating lately as I'm at the point that I'm tempted to start the bodywork.  I don't really have the money for paint and body work so I'm at a tought spot.  I purchased a 60 gallon air compressor which can run a paint gun back in November.  I'm tempted to try to paint the Mustang myself in the future but we will just have to wait and see.