Preparing for Ford Nationals - Headlight Relay & Firewall Grommets

Before the trip to Tulsa, I decided to install a headlight relay harness.  There are two main reasons:

1. Using a relay harness rather than routing headlight power through the switch allows for higher voltage at the light which equates to a brighter headlight.
2. Since the headlight power and draw is not pulled through the headlight switch, it is less prone to overheat.  When the headlight switch overheats, the lights turn off until it cools down.

While I could build my own headlight harness, I decided to use a RedLine LumTronix (part# EH-001) from CJ Pony parts.  The harness is well made, with proper length wiring, and insulation covering the wires.  If I could improve it in any way, it would be to make the H4 connectors for the headlights just slightly smaller.  They were slightly larger than stock and would not route through the holes through the grill brackets like the factory light wiring.  

The harness was rather easy to install but there is not much to show of it in pictures.  The relays are mounted to a bracket behind the passenger side headlight.  I'm honestly not able to tell an incredible amount of different in the brightness but they do appear a little brighter.

After the install was done, I thought the dimmer switch would not work.  Upon taking everything apart, I found the kick panel was putting pressure on the grommet in the carpet around the dimmer switch.  This pressure would not let the dimmer switch work.  After a little rearrangement, it seems to be working just fine.  

As part of finishing this project and the amplifer installation, I was able to seal up the remaining holes in the firewall.  So that takes another item off the list for Tulsa.

Remaining Items for Tulsa:
Lubricate U-Joints & Check Nut Torque
Check Air/Fuel Ratio
Fix Rattle by Clutch Pedal
Fix Squeaky Leaf Sprints
Add Air Conditioning (Includes Parts to Block Cowl Vents)
Fix Anti-Freeze Leaks
Add Fan Shroud

Preparing for Ford Nationals - Finishing Subwoofer Installation

I've worked a bit sporadically on carpeting the subwoofer box.  I covered it in carpet in two stages by covering the box first, then just the back of the divider panel, and then the front of the divider panel after the divider panel was screwed to the box.  This sounds rather simple but was a bit difficult to align the box and divider panel so that everything fit in the car perfectly.  

Once carpeted, I bolted it into place using the stock holes.  The fit was so tight that once carpeted, it almost did not fit.  It took a few taps with a hammer to get it into place.  The panel is 3/4" thick so it protrudes out from the metal some but does not cause a problem with installing the seat in place.  There are some bars on the back of the seat which run on either side of the speaker without touching it so everything went together quite well.

The subwoofer is a Kenwood KFC-XW1000F.

I ordered a Stinger amplifer installation kit with 8 gauge wire which I used to install the amplifer.  I didn't particularly like the non-standard blue power wire but the entire kit appears to be of really good quality.

The box is actually offset slightly (about 1") to the driver side while the speaker is still centered from the front.  This was done to allow enough space for the amplifer to be mounted on the passenger side of the divider panel.  

The amplifer is a Kenwood X500-1.

I'll probably work on it a bit more to have the trunk mat slide up under the box.  The box fits so snug that it will take a little work.  However, I think it will finish it up and make it look best.  For now, I just have the mat run straight up the back of the box.  

I was originally hesitant to add a subwoofer as it is just added weight and should not be necessary.  However, on the last road trip, I could not hear the stereo well so I decided to add front speakers.  With them added, I found they just can't handle any bass due to their small size (5.25").  This lead to wanting to turn on the high pass crossover in the radio but all the radios I checked would only apply the filter to all speakers.  I had all the amp and subwoofer left over from my old truck so I decided I'd install them for some better sound but also to turn on the high pass filter so the new front speakers to play loudly and not distort.

The stereo system sounds quite good now.  I'll just need to work on adjusting it so it sounds the best possible.