Adjusting Rear Height

This is a quick recap of the rear suspension heights in the configurations that I've attempted.  The last entry is the current height.  I'd love to find a 3/4" lowering block which fits properly but the best I've found don't match the dimensions of the spring perch.  I think I'll just install the 1" ones that I have and then see if that is enough to keep it from draging on the fender.

4.5 mid eye w/standard shackles             25" 
4.5 mid eye w/extended shackles            25 5/8
5 standard eye w/standard shackles        27"
5 standard eye w/1" lowering block          25.5" (25 D-5/16" and P-9/16")
4.5 standard eye w/standard shackle       26 7/8"

New Leaf Springs - Part 99

The Grab-A-Trak 5 leaf, standard height springs have done a good job of keeping the rear tires from making contact with the rear quarter panels but are quite stiff.  I've continued to use them, and received them in the first place, because the Grab-A-Trak 4.5 leaf springs in standard height have simply not been available.  They first became unavailable in February 2020 and I've not found them since.  I ordered them from Top Flight Automotive as part of a Father's Day sale many months ago and they were just able to fulfill the order.

At this point, I could have purchased a pretty serious rear suspension setup with the amount I've spent on three different sets of leaf springs. Unfortunately, I don't know that I really could have guessed the challenges that I would have.  I'm not sure which of them I will keep but they might come in handy if I continue making changes to the car.

While all of the leaf springs were out of the car, I set them side by side and took the following picture.  The first two sets of GAB leaf springs look identical in terms of leaf edges and plastic bushings.  However, the new set of leaf springs (in middle) look rather different except for the clamps.  They also lack the Grab-A-Track paint on the back and any labelling to confirm they are that particular brand.  

The new leaf springs have APM 12 22 42-329 stamped into the eye.  The last part (43-329) can be found online as a 4 leaf truck spring but it is definitely a 4.5 leaf spring.  With the differences I see between these and the last sets, I suspect I was just provided with a generic set of springs rather than actual Grab-A-Trak.  I installed them anyway as it would be a pain in the ass to return them.

I measured the various springs to check the difference.  I don't expect this to be reliable for anything as the spring rates are different and the 4.5 leaf springs have not been used.  Regardless, the heights were:

5 leaf        8 7/8"
4.5 leaf     9 7/8" (unused)
4 leaf        7 3/4"

I'm not positive, but the research I've done indicates the following spring rates for GAB springs.  I can tell just by bouncing the rear of the car by hand that these are not near as stiff.  I actually think they might be less stiff than the original 4.5 leaf springs.

195 for 5 leaf
175 for 4.5 leaf

I also took a few measurements before I started replacing or even moving around the car.  The heights were as follows:

Passenger Front     24 7/8"

Driver Front            24 13/16

Passenger Rear     25 9/16"

Driver Rear             25 5/16"

Update: I drove around with all the nuts finger tight to let the suspension settle.  I then torqued everything down and checked the height.  It is presently at 26 7/8".  It will likely settle a little more.  It would be great if it were a little lower but certainly not an inch.

Rear Quarter Panel Ornaments

The rear quarter panel ornaments on my Mustang were painted black when I purchased it.  I don't like the appearance of them when black but had some many items to address initially that changing there color was really low on the priority list.  Over the years, I will think about how I don't like the look of them when black but have become so accustom to the black that I largely don't notice.

A few weeks ago, I noticed a classified listing on the Vintage Mustang Forum for a very good condition set of ornaments which had already been cleaned, primered, and were ready for paint.  I decided to purchase them as coincidentally, I'd just spent time matching up the current paint color and have a can of matching paint.  The ornaments arrived during my power steering project so I set them aside until this weekend.

This weekend, I sanded them down just a little and then put a second coat of some Rustoleum automotive primer on the parts.  I then put a coat of the Duplicolor Intense Blue Pearl (# BCC0422).  The plan is to ultimately top coat with some Spray Max 2K Glamour Clear Coat that I purchased from Summit Racing.  This will be the real test of the match of this particular paint but regardless, they are so small I'm sure it will improve the exterior appearance.

I've not put clear coat on them left as the 2k can will go bad within 24 hours of mixing the components.  I'm considering what else that I might need to paint to take full advantage of the can.  As you can see in the first picture above, I expect I might need to do a bit more work on the color match of the replacement fender.  If this color proves to be a better match, I might end up repainting the fender and front valence with this new paint color and 2k clear coat.

Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More (Part 8)

I found a local company who would tackle the project of welding my new Z-bar. I arrived with all the pieces cut, fit together, and tack welded in place. I picked the Z-bar back the next day and it was very nicely tig welded together. It is rare I have someone help with a car project and leave the experience happy but this was definitely one of those situations.

I painted the piece with some primer and then VHT engine paint that is satin black. I selected the paint as I wanted the part to be satin black and this was the only variant of that color which I could find in a high heat paint. Overall, the paint turned out well but the sheen seems highly dependent on how wet the paint is a applied. It has a bit of a splotchy look but I'm not to worried about it.

I'm quite pleased to have this piece in hand and ready to install. This was a major hurdle for this project.



I contacted OpenTracker today as well and he indicated he would refund my money for the original Z-bar since it did not work out for my application.  I'll be mailing it back tomorrow.

Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More (Part 7)

The Borgeson Z-Bar I purchased from OpenTracker would unfortunately not fit my vehicle due to my Patriot Clippster headers. I spent a few hours researching various types headers that might fit better but most came at a price tag of $700+ and I might still find they don't work and would need to rework my exhaust which is custom bent to fit my current headers. I even considered cable and hydraulic clutch setups but it was all way too much.

I contacted John at OpenTracker with a few pictures of the fitment in my vehicle. He indicated that the best option would be to just custom make a Z-bar that works in the space available. It had crossed my mind that one could be custom made but frankly just wanted a simpler solution it it existed. With this being my only option left, I decided to get to work.

I started by cutting the top part off the Z-bar as it was the only portion which was not shaped well for the new steering box. I placed it in the car and used some cardboard to make a new upper arm. I then used it to make a thin metal prototype to test it further. I then progressed to purchasing some 5/16" steel as that matched the size of the stock piece. In the picture below, you can see the OpenTracker model, my prototype, and then the piece of 5/16" metal that I ultimately used to make the Z-bar.

The newly created Z-bar is shown below with a few spot welds to hold it in place for testing. The template process worked well as the new piece fits perfectly. It looks like something someone built at home due to the boxy nature but I'm glad I have something that works. I won't say how many hours went into this piece as it took way longer than I expected. But it works and fits in the incredibly tight space.





This is a picture of my Z-bar installed for some rough test fit purposes... so rough I didn't even both to put the top link in the right way which is apparent by the firewall boot. However, putting it all together allowed me to cycle it through motion a few times to confirm everything fit together and there were no issues. You can see the damage to the fire wall from the leaking master cyclinder in this picture.

 


I need this piece to be very strong as I can't afford to have the welds break while I'm out driving around. For that reason, I'm going to find someone to finish weld this up for me. I'll then paint it with some height heat paint since it is so close to the exhaust.

Last thing is that I did today was dimple the header where it was making contact with the new steering box. The header is ceramic coated and the dimple cause the coating to come off. I'm going to get some similar colored high temp paint and see if I can touch it up.

Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More (Part 6)

The Borgeson power steering system I ordered (#BRG-99920) is for an early 1967 mustang with a 1" sector shaft on the steering box.  The kit adds a rag joint similar to the style used on 1968 and later model Mustangs (shown to the left of the new, black steering box below).  This is an improvement versus the long steering shaft originally used that so many refer to as the spear-o-matic.  However, this improvement requires the steering column be cut down to allow space for this rag joint between the steering box and the steering column.

Over the last couple of days, I've been working to test fit the various components and cut down the steering column as needed.  I started with mounting up the power steering pump expecting to have some trouble as it mounts using the same head bolt holes that are currently used by the Classic Auto Air compressor.  Thankfully, Borgeson supplied two sets of stand off sleeves for installing the pump for those with with A/C and those without.  The stand-off sleeves worked perfectly and installing it was a breeze.

The next step was to determine the best way to run the belt for the power steering pump.  I already have a three groove crank pulley but installing power steering also requires a two groove water pump pulley.  Without a two groove water pump pulley, the belt makes contact with the water pump pulley in a bad way.  My water pump pulley was purchased specifically for the A/C system and isn't very old but I'll be swapping it out with a Scott Drake C6AZ-8509A which appears to be the correct 5 13/16" pulley with the right offset.  At this point, I expect to use a 48" belt for the power steering system so I went ahead and purchased one from AutoZone so I have it ready.  

With this handled, I turned my attention to the power steering lines as I have heard others found them to not be long enough or make contact with the headers.  I found mine fit rather well with a few tweaks to the hard line bends near the box.  They are still relatively close to the headers at points.  I don't want to risk it so I ordered some 3/4" DEI Fire Sleeve which fits perfectly over both lines to keep them safe.  

The last part of the project was to take apart the steering column, mock up the column with the new steering shaft, and determine how much of the column to cut away.  I started with cutting a 6.5" piece off and ultimately cut off another 1.25" to get it just right. 

I sanded down the column as it has taken a few beatings being removed and reinstalled and put another coat of the stock style paint on it.  I then used a Mustang Steve roller bearing at the end rather than the plug Borgeson provided.  This is much better than the rubber plug and worm clamp that Borgeson supplied to use (showed in column picture below).  The finished product looks good and is ready to install.

Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More (Part 5)

A portion of this project is replacing the Raybestos MC36440 master cylinder which I installed back in 2008.  The master cylinder is a common replacement when switching to a front disc brake system without manual brakes in part due to the 15/16" bore.  I'm replacing it with a Wilwood 260-14157 which also has a 15/16" bore but has a better sealing lid.  The Raybestos lid would never seal properly and caused brake fluid to spill out down the side of the master cylinder causing it to rust and then the fluid would get on the firewall and steering column below causing the paint to peel off.  A side benefit is that the Wilwood unit is a nice aluminum piece which weights 2.5 lbs compared to the cast iron version which is 5.4 lbs.

I've test fit the Wilwood master cylinder and there are no issues.  However, I'll need to make new brake lines to the proportioning valve because the master cylinder ports are in slightly different places and use different side fittings.  My plan is to bend new lines using 3/16" fittings at the master cylinder as that size will then be consistent front and back and could be adapted to large sizes later if needed.

I purchased some brake lines, fittings, and then rented a flaring tool from AutoZone.  After attempting 8 flares with the rented tool, I recalled why I hated using it so much many years ago.  I then purchased a Lisle 33260 flaring tool on Amazon which changed the process greatly.  Every flare I made with the Lisle tool was perfect so it was definitely a good purchase and I'm glad to have it on hand in the event I need to do more brake lines again.

I was a bit tired of dealing with brake lines at the end of the day and the routing of the lines is not exactly as I envisioned but they are done.  After the test fit, I set these all aside in a safe place to work on the test fit of other items.  The plan is to work through each portion of this project testing fitting everything.  Once that is done, I'll clean and paint the firewall, and then finish it all out with clean and ready to install parts.

Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More (Part 4)

This evening, I test fit the steering box, exhaust, and z-bar and found they don't fit together.  The z-bar will fit and work fine with just the steering box.  After making a small dimple on the exhaust, it fits fine with the steering box alone.  However, there just simply isn't space for the z-bar to fit between the steering box and the exhaust.  I'm not sure if I can make it fit so I'm struggling to find a good way to make this all work.

I first thought that the z-bar would fit if it did not have the round stock welded to it for reinforcement.  That was mostly wishful thinking as I expect I'd need to dent the header at the collector a good 3/4" for this to fit together even with the round stock removed.  There just simply isn't room.

The following is a picture of just the steering box and the z-bar showing the clearance.

Then this picture of the steering box with the header installed.

With all three installed, the header is actually pushing the z-bar to the right by at least 3/8" so that it has no chance of fitting between the header and the steering box as it should.  

I started looking at cable clutch setups from Modern Driveline and Mustang Steve but they all require a particular bell housing, clutch, and/or fulcrum and arm setup.  I've searched for different headers but they are all rather expensive and would require I rework the exhaust which would likely make the parking brake not work again which is what started all of this in the first place.  

I really don't want to give up on the power steering and have everything ripped out of the box so returning it likely will not work out.  I really don't want to go beating on the header unless I'm positive it is going to work but it is hard to state at this point.  I've emailed the company which makes the z-bar to see if he has any ideas as he does custom make the z-bar but I'm not optimistic with the space I have available.

Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More (Part 2)

This morning, I continued to disassemble everything needed for the power steering installation, new master cylinder, and the parking brake repairs.  The goal is to get it all taken apart, test fit the new parts, and then start the process of cleaning it up to get it painted for final assembly.

The removal of the steering box was first and proved to be rather challenging.  The last time I removed it I believe most of the engine compartment was removed and it was not a big deal.  This time, I had to remove the steering linkage, driver side header, engine cross member, engine mounts from both sides, the oil filter, and then jack the engine up a few inches.  The steering box and near 4' long shaft them pulled straight out the front between the oil pan and lower control arm mount.  

The new steering box is quite a bit larger than the original.  It uses what is referred to as a rag joint (pictured with the box) and a separate shaft which makes installation and removing it (if needed) later much easier.  The box is so large that many indicate the need to dimple the header or grind off part of the box in order to make everything fit.

My plan is to test fit it all before painting just to see how everything goes together.  I can then make adjustments as needed before anything is cleaned up and painted.  Nothing is better than putting parts you know will fit on a cleaned up and painted car.  As shown in the image below, I've a bit of work ahead of me to get to that point.

Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More

I've decided to tackle a few new projects with the Mustang.  

The Raybestos master cylinder (# MC36440) I purchased many years ago has leaked at the lid since it was installed.  I've tried several adjustments to the retaining bar and the lid itself with no success.  The leak causes brake fluid to drip onto the firewall, steering column, and Z bar resulting in wrinkled or missing paint.  I'll be cleaning up this mess and installing a Wilwood master cylinder (260-14157).  The Wilwood is made to fit my model Mustang, has the same 15/16" bore, is lighter, and has a lid which firmly attaches.  Unfortunately, it will require replacing some of the brake lines to the proportioning valve to install.

I've long wanted to install power steering on the Mustang but have just waited due to the cost.  To properly clean up everything, I need to remove most of the steering column.  I decided I'd go ahead and install a Borgeson 999020 power steering system.  This will add some time to the job but there is no better time to do it than now.  I'm hopeful that it works well with the Classic Auto Air system and my exhaust.  

The Borgeson system does not work well with the factory Z-bar so I ordered a replacement from OpenTracker.  This reinforced model has a different curvature to clear the Borgeson unit.  The kit comes with Heim join rods and all new parts.  The full kit is shown to the left with the items I removed today on the right.  So far, I know the dust boot no longer fits the small diameter of the clutch peddle shaft and I expect I'll need to dent the exhaust some to clear this larger z-bar.  However, it looks built extremely solid.

So far, I've removed the master cylinder, steering column, and z-bar setup.  The original steering box will need to come out next.  Afterwards, I'll need to do some clean up, sanding, and painting of the firewall before new items can be installed.  

This project really started with plans just to fix the parking brake lever but it seems to have expanded quickly.  

Searching for the Current Paint Color

 After receiving an incredible quote to paint the Mustang, I've begun to consider different options.  One of those is to try determine the current paint color again as it might allow for additional possibilities.

I visited a local paint shop last week with a piece cut from the original front valence.  I used a section that was protected by the front license plate.  The shop indicated they had the machine to scan the color to identify it but that they preferred to first look through PPG color books to find a match.  I left the panel and commented that I was told the paint was an early 1990's GM color.  

I received a call yesterday indicating they had identified the color as PPG 5357 which has the name Intense Blue Pearl which was used from 1998 to 2003 by Chrysler.  He went on to state the OEM color code was B3 but with some research is seems that PB3 is Intense Blue Pearl so perhaps I misheard or the guy misspoke.  He then gave me the following pricing for 8 oz indicating it would be reduced to 16 oz which is enough for one fender (only 12 oz or so would be needed).
     Shop line - $49.92
     Deltron - $116.72

What doesn't add up, if this is the paint color, is the timing of when the paint was available.  I sear the guy I purchased the car from stated it was painted in the early 90s which matched the failed clearcoat on the car when I purchased it.  For this to be the color, the earliest it could have been painted was in 1997-8.  That would be 10 years before I purchased the car.  That doesn't fit the timeframe very well unless it was exceptionally cheap paint. 

I found the paint color in a Duplicolor spray can at AutoZone.  I purchased it to do a bit of testing.  Surprising, it is extremely close in color.  If anything, it might be slightly darker but without a clear coat over it matching what is on the car it might cause it to look a little darker depending on the light.  

Oil Change, Transmission Leak, & Fixing Rattles

Over the last few days, I've spent a little time fixing some small rattles on the Mustang and cleaning it up a little.  The rattles I've worked on include emblems with missing barrel clips, a loose rear bumper bracket, and a missing bolt from the front lower valence.  There is no doubt more rattles but I'll have to track them down.  

I changed the oil and put in Valvoline VR1 10w30 and a Wix 51515 oil filter.  The oil was changed not too long ago in terms of mileage but I wanted to switch from Lucas to the VR1 oil.  If I watch Amazon, I can get it cheaper than the Lucas Hot Rod oil and I expect it provides better protection.  

I then switched to working on the transmission which I believe it leaking a little from the drain plug and the output seal.  I put some Permatex thread sealant on the drain plug and reinstalled it.  I used a Master Pro 7692S output seal with a little Permatex Ultra Grey RTV around the metal edge.  I would have used a Temkin or National brand seal but none were available locally.

I noticed what looks to be a small coolant leak.  The only evidence is a small run line down the lower hose and a spot on the front anti-roll bar were it ate off the paint.  I've tightened the c;amps and will see if I can find anything else that is a potential source of the leak.  

A Quick List of Projects

Quite a bit of time has passed since I've done any work to the Mustang or driven it for that matter.  I checked into the price to paint the Mustang at a local, high end restoration shop and was told $20-$25k.  The wait to even start was 1.5 years.  This was not the best news and I've been debating what to do with the car since.  It is more than I expected and I'm not really sure if it is worth it.  I tell my self that the paint and exterior condition is why I don't drive it but I'm not so certain.  

There are a few small annoyances that I want to fix on the car.  They are things I have put off for a while and should be done if I decide to paint it or not.  These include:

1) Transmission Leak - The transmission leaks a fair amount.  I believe it leaks from the drain plug because I did not put any sealant on it.  That said, I think I will also replace the tail shaft seal with a new one while on the fluid is drained out.

2) Master Cylinder Leak - The master cylinder is a Raybestos for a 1974 Maverick because it fits and has a 15/16" bore.  The problem is the lid leaks and I don't see a way to fix it.  The leak strips all the paint off the steering column inside the engine bay and perhaps more.  I need a good master cylinder.

3) Parking Brake - The parking brake stopped working quite some time ago.  I believe there is something wrong with the pulley or wire connection inside the car that activates the rest of the system under the car.  It stopped working and I've not even looked so I'll need to start there.

4) Rattles - There are many rattles on the car including the rear bumper for starters.  I'd like to make the rattles go away so that it does not sound like a box of bolts rolling down the road.

5) Windshield Leak - I still have not addressed this since the road trip a few years ago.  I questioned waiting for the paint job but with a 1.5 year wait for paint, I might as well do it if I'm going to drive it anywhere.

6) Rear Suspension - The rear leaf springs are just too stiff.  I hate to just go buying more leaf springs but don't believe there is another way to fix it.  I'm going to need to think on this one a bit more before buying anything but I need a solution.

7) Clutch Squeak - The clutch spring squeaks and makes noise when the clutch pedal is pressed.  I'm not sure I need the spring anymore.  I'm going to look into it and might convert to a roller bearing bushing on the clutch and brake pedal assembly.

Considering Compression Ratios

I continue to consider different ways of making the Mustang faster.  The challenge is that any performance improvement at this point involves replacing a relatively new part I installed with something better.  The gains are smaller without considering a larger engine.

If I went to a larger engine like a 347 or 363, I would need different heads that would work with a roller camshaft.  Bigger heads would have some form of improvement now so they would work for either option.  While I don't know that they offer a great deal of improvement in my current setup, I'm considering it and wanted to collect all the details I have on what different heads would do to my current compression ratio and if I switched to a larger engine later.

Looking through my original posts, I found the following detail on the original engine configuration.  If I plug it into an online calculator, the compression ratio is only 8.13 which does not seem right compared to the stock specs published online (9:1+):
    Cylinder Size: 4.040 x 2.87
    Deck Height: 7.365cc (.035" In Bore x 4.040 Bore))
    Gasket: 10.16cc (.047 x 4.10" Bore) (Fel-Pro 8548PT-2)
    Piston: 12cc Dish (Keith Black Silv-O-Lite 1157)

    CR 8.13 (w 55cc heads)

If I calculate where I am after the rebuild, the compression ratio is at 8.86 which is rather low.  I thought it was a little over 9:1 for some reason but don't see where my measurements are off.

    Cylinder Size: 4.040 x 2.87
    Deck Height: 0 (Zero Decked)
    Gasket: 10.16cc (.047 x 4.10" Bore) (Fel-Pro 9333PT1)
    Piston: 6.5cc (Keith Black KB115)

    CR 8.864 (w 60cc heads)    

The Summit website states that the compression ratio of the Dart 347 small block is 10:1 with a 58cc head.  The Summit site does not include a compression ratio spec for the Dart 363 but it does indicate the pistions are Mahl 93024485 with a 6.5 cc dish which would put the compression ratio at 10.7:1 with a 60cc head and 11:1 with a 58 cc head.  

The FelPro 10112 head gasket which compresses to .039.  The cc of the current FelPro 933PT1 is 10.169cc and the 10112 is 8.438 cc.  This has almost the same effect as dropping the head cc to 58.  This still only puts me at a 9.045:1 with the current setup.

If I use the FelPro 10112 and start to mill the head, I see the following impacts on the current setup:

58 cc = 9.266:1

56 cc = 9.5:1

According to a MotorTrend article I read, a change in 1 compression ratio is about a 3% change in power.  https://www.motortrend.com/news/0311em-power-squeeze/

My thought is that this really isn't worth the trouble.  I don't think the head would flow that much better and the compression ratio benefit is minimal.  The real difference is that I could have more than .550 lift and would be able to rev beyond 5500 rpm.