Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More (Part 4)

This evening, I test fit the steering box, exhaust, and z-bar and found they don't fit together.  The z-bar will fit and work fine with just the steering box.  After making a small dimple on the exhaust, it fits fine with the steering box alone.  However, there just simply isn't space for the z-bar to fit between the steering box and the exhaust.  I'm not sure if I can make it fit so I'm struggling to find a good way to make this all work.

I first thought that the z-bar would fit if it did not have the round stock welded to it for reinforcement.  That was mostly wishful thinking as I expect I'd need to dent the header at the collector a good 3/4" for this to fit together even with the round stock removed.  There just simply isn't room.

The following is a picture of just the steering box and the z-bar showing the clearance.

Then this picture of the steering box with the header installed.

With all three installed, the header is actually pushing the z-bar to the right by at least 3/8" so that it has no chance of fitting between the header and the steering box as it should.  

I started looking at cable clutch setups from Modern Driveline and Mustang Steve but they all require a particular bell housing, clutch, and/or fulcrum and arm setup.  I've searched for different headers but they are all rather expensive and would require I rework the exhaust which would likely make the parking brake not work again which is what started all of this in the first place.  

I really don't want to give up on the power steering and have everything ripped out of the box so returning it likely will not work out.  I really don't want to go beating on the header unless I'm positive it is going to work but it is hard to state at this point.  I've emailed the company which makes the z-bar to see if he has any ideas as he does custom make the z-bar but I'm not optimistic with the space I have available.

Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More (Part 2)

This morning, I continued to disassemble everything needed for the power steering installation, new master cylinder, and the parking brake repairs.  The goal is to get it all taken apart, test fit the new parts, and then start the process of cleaning it up to get it painted for final assembly.

The removal of the steering box was first and proved to be rather challenging.  The last time I removed it I believe most of the engine compartment was removed and it was not a big deal.  This time, I had to remove the steering linkage, driver side header, engine cross member, engine mounts from both sides, the oil filter, and then jack the engine up a few inches.  The steering box and near 4' long shaft them pulled straight out the front between the oil pan and lower control arm mount.  

The new steering box is quite a bit larger than the original.  It uses what is referred to as a rag joint (pictured with the box) and a separate shaft which makes installation and removing it (if needed) later much easier.  The box is so large that many indicate the need to dimple the header or grind off part of the box in order to make everything fit.

My plan is to test fit it all before painting just to see how everything goes together.  I can then make adjustments as needed before anything is cleaned up and painted.  Nothing is better than putting parts you know will fit on a cleaned up and painted car.  As shown in the image below, I've a bit of work ahead of me to get to that point.

Power Steering, Master Cylinder, Parking Brake, and More

I've decided to tackle a few new projects with the Mustang.  

The Raybestos master cylinder (# MC36440) I purchased many years ago has leaked at the lid since it was installed.  I've tried several adjustments to the retaining bar and the lid itself with no success.  The leak causes brake fluid to drip onto the firewall, steering column, and Z bar resulting in wrinkled or missing paint.  I'll be cleaning up this mess and installing a Wilwood master cylinder (260-14157).  The Wilwood is made to fit my model Mustang, has the same 15/16" bore, is lighter, and has a lid which firmly attaches.  Unfortunately, it will require replacing some of the brake lines to the proportioning valve to install.

I've long wanted to install power steering on the Mustang but have just waited due to the cost.  To properly clean up everything, I need to remove most of the steering column.  I decided I'd go ahead and install a Borgeson 999020 power steering system.  This will add some time to the job but there is no better time to do it than now.  I'm hopeful that it works well with the Classic Auto Air system and my exhaust.  

The Borgeson system does not work well with the factory Z-bar so I ordered a replacement from OpenTracker.  This reinforced model has a different curvature to clear the Borgeson unit.  The kit comes with Heim join rods and all new parts.  The full kit is shown to the left with the items I removed today on the right.  So far, I know the dust boot no longer fits the small diameter of the clutch peddle shaft and I expect I'll need to dent the exhaust some to clear this larger z-bar.  However, it looks built extremely solid.

So far, I've removed the master cylinder, steering column, and z-bar setup.  The original steering box will need to come out next.  Afterwards, I'll need to do some clean up, sanding, and painting of the firewall before new items can be installed.  

This project really started with plans just to fix the parking brake lever but it seems to have expanded quickly.  

Searching for the Current Paint Color

 After receiving an incredible quote to paint the Mustang, I've begun to consider different options.  One of those is to try determine the current paint color again as it might allow for additional possibilities.

I visited a local paint shop last week with a piece cut from the original front valence.  I used a section that was protected by the front license plate.  The shop indicated they had the machine to scan the color to identify it but that they preferred to first look through PPG color books to find a match.  I left the panel and commented that I was told the paint was an early 1990's GM color.  

I received a call yesterday indicating they had identified the color as PPG 5357 which has the name Intense Blue Pearl which was used from 1998 to 2003 by Chrysler.  He went on to state the OEM color code was B3 but with some research is seems that PB3 is Intense Blue Pearl so perhaps I misheard or the guy misspoke.  He then gave me the following pricing for 8 oz indicating it would be reduced to 16 oz which is enough for one fender (only 12 oz or so would be needed).
     Shop line - $49.92
     Deltron - $116.72

What doesn't add up, if this is the paint color, is the timing of when the paint was available.  I sear the guy I purchased the car from stated it was painted in the early 90s which matched the failed clearcoat on the car when I purchased it.  For this to be the color, the earliest it could have been painted was in 1997-8.  That would be 10 years before I purchased the car.  That doesn't fit the timeframe very well unless it was exceptionally cheap paint. 

I found the paint color in a Duplicolor spray can at AutoZone.  I purchased it to do a bit of testing.  Surprising, it is extremely close in color.  If anything, it might be slightly darker but without a clear coat over it matching what is on the car it might cause it to look a little darker depending on the light.  

Oil Change, Transmission Leak, & Fixing Rattles

Over the last few days, I've spent a little time fixing some small rattles on the Mustang and cleaning it up a little.  The rattles I've worked on include emblems with missing barrel clips, a loose rear bumper bracket, and a missing bolt from the front lower valence.  There is no doubt more rattles but I'll have to track them down.  

I changed the oil and put in Valvoline VR1 10w30 and a Wix 51515 oil filter.  The oil was changed not too long ago in terms of mileage but I wanted to switch from Lucas to the VR1 oil.  If I watch Amazon, I can get it cheaper than the Lucas Hot Rod oil and I expect it provides better protection.  

I then switched to working on the transmission which I believe it leaking a little from the drain plug and the output seal.  I put some Permatex thread sealant on the drain plug and reinstalled it.  I used a Master Pro 7692S output seal with a little Permatex Ultra Grey RTV around the metal edge.  I would have used a Temkin or National brand seal but none were available locally.

I noticed what looks to be a small coolant leak.  The only evidence is a small run line down the lower hose and a spot on the front anti-roll bar were it ate off the paint.  I've tightened the c;amps and will see if I can find anything else that is a potential source of the leak.