HRPT Prep 29 - Trip to Houston and Back

Today, I decided to make a quick trip to the northern part of Houston as a test drive.  The total drive was 2.5 hours and 135 miles.  

The first part of the trip was largely on the highway.  I ran most of the time with the A/C on low and the temperature of the engine was always about 185 degrees.  This was with an outside temperature of about 82 degrees at 10:30 in the morning.  

As I made it into a little stop and go traffic with fairly sustained 30 to 40 MPH sections the car stayed at 195 degrees with the AC on low.

Once there, I at Pappasito's with my wife and daughter.  When I went out to start the car 45 minutes later, it really did not want to start.  I had to floor it and there was a ton of belt squeal.  I hoped the lower base timing would help with that but I guess not.  

I drove the stop and go path home and just stopping a few times with the A/C on drove the car up to 200 degrees.  I turned the A/C off but the car kept going up in temp until it reached 210.  I'm not sure if it would have maintained that or not because traffic let up and I started driving 40 for a while and the temp slowly came down to 195.  Its bothersome none the less.

Once I hit the highway again, the temp was back between 185 and 195 with the A/C on medium (only three speeds).  I made it the whole way home without any issues.  Once parked back in the garage, I tried to restart the car and didn't have much of a problem.  I just had to floor it like normal and then all was good.  I'm wondering if gas is just boiling over into the engine the longer it is parked and it floods the engine.

This was a good trip and my take aways are that I still have some concern the car will get hot, I have a rattle in the driver door, it would be good to take more CDs, and then I noticed that the front passenger windshield trim seems to have blown off on the trip.

06/04/23 Update: I ordered a replacement upper windshield trim piece that is sold by Scott Drake.  I assumed they made it but they do not.  The quality seems to be good but it was rather hard to install so that it would not come off.  After about seven tries, I found it is best to slide it through the clips at the middle of the glass and then push it down into the others.  With that approach, I was able to install it and hopefully it will not come off.

HRPT Prep 28 - Ignition Timing Adjustment

After originally switching to a carburetor, I had so many problems with tuning it properly.  I ended up changing jets and working initial timing until it would not hesitate when given throttle.  Years later, I learned there was an intake leak that likely caused most of the problems.  The car is often hard to start when hot and I've always thought it was just because the carb was getting too hot but recently thought better of it and decided to adjust the initial timing.

I remember the initial timing being at 16 degrees with 20 degrees advance.  However, with I check it now with the new harmonic balancer, it is at 14 initial and barely reaches 30 degrees total.  I'm not sure why it isn't set right but I've the parts already which came with the distributor so I went to work first adjusting it down to 12 degrees at idle.  

There are three limiters advance in the distributor and they are:

No Mark - 12 degrees advance

Blue - 16 degrees advance

Red - 20 degrees advance

After setting the initial timing to 12 degrees advance, I checked the distributor and found one with no mark and a blue limiter in place.  One set of instructions states that you can mix and match.  Since I had about 30 total, it really seemed to just be going of the blue mark one.  I switched to a blue and a red and ended up with still about 30 so it went up by 2 since the initial timing dropped by 2 and the overall timing stayed the same.

I ultimately switched to use both reds and it is now at 12 degrees initial with about 32 degrees total.  I probably should just take them out completely but the instructions don't indicate that level of advance so I've not done it yet.  Nothing will get hurt at 34 degrees so I've left it like that for now.

I drove about eight miles this way and had no problems with performance or pinging.  It started much easier when warm (180 degrees) in the garage.  However, when I returned and tried to start it hot in the garage, it still took flooring the gas and cranking to get it to start.  

HRPT Prep 27 - What's Left

There are two weeks left until my son and I leave for Hot Rod Power Tour.  I've been using this checklist to track things from the beginning which needed to be done.  I've added to it along the way and just skipped over some items I later thought were not as important.  There isn't much left to do anymore.

In order of importance, I have the following that I'd like to get done before the trip starts.  If I got only the A/C done, I'd realistically be just fine at this point.

• Confirm A/C Has No Leaks - Done 05/27/23
• Reduce and Adjust Timing Curve - Done 05/27/23
• Make Bracket for Clutch Reservoir
• Adjust Parking Brake
• Install LED Flashers & LED Parking Light

HRPT Prep 26 - Front End Alignment

Today, I asked a local shop to perform an alignment on the Mustang.  The tires are wearing a bit on the inside edge and I wondered if the camber was off from replacing both upper ball joints.  Also, at times, it does not want to center well and seems to be thrown off a bit by grooves in the road.  

I printed the OpenTracker alignment specs and took them with me to the shop.  The technician came out and after looking at them said the -.5 to -1 spec would still cause the wear that I'm seeing.  He suggested just a little positive camber which I've seen mentioned many times as a negative in classic Mustangs.  In the end, I asked that he use all the OpenTracker specs but he could put the camber close to zero but not positive.

He provided a before and after report which I'll summarize below along with the OpenTracker specs.  Overall, it is probably best for the road trip but the positive camber bothers me a bit as I specifically indicated I did not want it to be positive and he did it anyway.  I'm interested to see if the increased caster or improved toe measurements make much of a difference on the highway.  

Caster:
OpenTracker Spec:        +2.5 to + 4.5

Before Measurement:     L +1.0         R +1.4

After Measurement:        L +2.6         R +2.8

Camber: 
OpenTracker Spec:        -.5 to -1
Before Measurement:    L -0.5    R +0.2

After Measurement:       L +0.6   R +0.8

Toe:
OpenTracker Spec:        1/8" in

Before Measurement:    .29 degrees (.23L and .08R)

After Measurement:       .30 degrees (.15L and .14R)

HRPT Prep 25 - A/C Throttle Solenoid & Coolant Leak

With the A/C working, I wired up the Holly #46-74 fast idle solenoid that will hold the throttle at a higher RPM when the A/C was running.  I wired up a relay for most of the install when I rewired my fan relays.  This relay is mounted where the old voltage regulator was installed and required just two wires.  The first was the positive trigger wire connected to the compressor lead and the other was the output to the solenoid.  

I used the Holley appropriate Holley bracket but the alignment for the solenoid push rod was horrible.  It did not make contact with the throttle linkage where is should and instead the bracket itself kept the linkage from fully releasing.  I had to cut, grind, bend, and then paint it so that it would fit right.  I then painted it with a combination of aluminum colored paints so it would blend in a little better.  The final product looks good.  

The relay is fairly accssible and is nearest the fender apron in the picture below.  The relay nearest the radiator is for the fan and controls the fans turning on based on temperature.

With the bracket for throttle solenoid mounted as far away from the carburetor as possible, it will hold the idle at 1,000 when the A/C is on.  This is a little high but isn't bad.  My normal idle is 750 RPM but when the A/C was on without the solenoid, it would drop to 650 RPM and run rough.  I'll take it.  It will hold the idle but not push it up so if the A/C kicks on while idling, you need to blip the throttle to get it to jump up to 1,000.  No big deal.  I knew it when purchasing it. 

Unfortunately, while working on this, I realized I have yet another coolant leak.  This one was not present before and seems to have appeared from driving.  I can't tell 100% where it is from.  As before, I tightened the bolts on the timing cover and water pump a bit more and will see if it stops leaking.  Unfortunately, it discolored the new paint.  It makes you think all the work you put into something is hardly worth it.

Edit 05/25/23 - As I sat awake unable to sleep last night, it occurred to me this might not be a leak.  The reason I can't find a leak is likely because it came from the radiator overflow that I topped off the night before.  That would explain why there is no visible source and that it just popped up now.  I went outside the following morning planning to clean it up and touch up the paint but everything just wiped off!  This is a much better outcome than I was expecting.

HRPT Prep 24 - Trinary Switch Replacement, Freon Refill, & Local Shop Frustrations

Today, I decided to take my Mustang to a local shop to have the A/C work done which is one of the last big hurdles.  I really despise taking my car to any shops as the experience is always negative.  Unfortunately, this time was no different.

I talked to the tech (Buster) personally about the work that was needed.  He would remove the freon, replace the trinary switch, pull a vacuum and check the condenser connection for a leak, and then fill it back up.  The A/C would still blow cold but without the trinary switch, the fan would not turn on, head pressure would spike immediately, and the A/C would turn off.

I dropped the car off at 7 AM since they don't take reservations so I would be first in line.  I waited until 1 o'clock and then called to check the status.  The lady said they had not started as they marked that I needed the work done by Saturday which was a full two days later.  They had since filled the shop with other work and the only option was to leave it overnight and they would do it tomorrow.

I carried on working unsure if I would let them keep it overnight.  I then received a text that it was ready to be picked up.  My frustration then hit an all time high.  I was charged $105 to swap the trinary switch.  I was then charged $210 to empty and refill the system.  I was also charged $64.49 was two days from now.  That seems excessive especially for the trinary switch that is connected by one plug and by screwing it in.

I went to pick it up and they said there was no leak but I don't know that I believe they checked.  I asked if there were no leak, why the system needed 1.5 lbs of freon.  The guy then acted as if he were doing me a favor because he only charged me for 1.5 but they could have put in more.  I think he missed the point and I then commented the system only holds 2 lbs.  

I was obviously frustrated and asked what happened if all the freon leaked out.  He said that they would fix it at no charge.  Unfortunately, when that happens, I'll probably be in North Carolina.  He said the best option was to come back the next day to talk to the tech.  That doesn't generate much confidence and my daughter graduates tomorrow so I won't have the time.

To add to my frustration, they had my car still in the shop on a small lift.  Two guys were leaning on it like it was their car smoking with the windows all down.  When one started it to pull it out, he had to rev it excessively for some reason.  Again... I hate taking my car anywhere as no one does the type quality work that I do and most of the time they can't even tell you what they did.

The $140 trinary switch installed.  You can see the area on the cross member where I believe freon has leaked out.  You can even see the green color dye but they state there is no leak.  I suppose I'll clean it up and then run the system to see if I see more there afterwards.

05/28/23 Edit: The day after this post, I cleaned the front crossmember up.  I then checked how tight the lower line into the condenser was and found it to need a little tightening.  I did so and then left a nicely folded piece of paper towel under the connection where the liquid was before on the cross member.  After 36 hours, there was nothing on it.  I drove around a bit with the A/C turned to high with the paper towel taped into place.  Even after cool down, there was nothing on the towel.  

I repainted the lower crossmember on the 27th and then drove it to Houston on the 28th with the paper towel still in place and covered by the front valence.  After over two hours of driving, I pulled out the paper towel and there was nothing on it.  I think it is safe to say it doesn't leak.

HRPT Prep 23 - Brake Lights Repaired

While driving around town on Saturday, a man pulled up beside me to let me know that my brake lights were not working.  My immediate thought was the switch on the brake pedal had the plug come off or was broken.  This evening, I decided I'd handle it as I expected it to be an easy fix.

I checked the brake light switch and found it was working perfectly fine.  There was power to the switch so I decided to check the socket at the back and found it did not have power.  After a little research, I learned the brake light feed runs through the turn signal switch before going to the rear of the car.  This was a little disappointing as I assumed it was broken and I replaced it not that long ago.

I checked the wiring to the turn signal switch and it had power when the brake pedal was pressed.  I decided I'd go ahead and take off the steering wheel to see if the turn signal switch had any visible damage.  I didn't see anything and as I was working with it realized that when I put the column together months ago during the power steering upgrade, it sliced the brake wire in half.  

It was in a place that I could solder it back together so I did so and then covered it with heat shrink.  I then tested it out and everything worked great.  I also noticed that the horn feed was pinched in the housing too but not enough to damage the insulation.  With those two issues fixed, I put it back together and now have functioning brake likes again.

I'm glad this did not require any parts and its now fixed.  This means, however, that have not had brake lights since August of last year and had no trouble getting it inspected.  

HRPT Prep 22 - Resealing the Front Windshield

This project to remove and reseal the front windshield started a few days ago.  I've been very apprehensive about starting as it is something entirely new for me and I was initially concerned I'd find some rust which would cause the project to get larger than I have time to accomplish.  However, I remember how horribly is leaked when my son and I went to Tulsa and we can't have that happen again.

My first step was to remove the trim around the windshield and inspect the seal pull away all the dried out and brittle sealant.  At this time, I was still thinking about the possibility of just putting more sealant around it.  I checked around the entire perimeter with a pick tool looking for any sign of rust but couldn't find anything concerning.

I already have the windshield gasket (Scott Drake C5ZZ-6503100-A) and a new set of trim clips that I purchased after the Tulsa trip.  I had the CRL-7708 sealant arrive Thursday night which is the last of what I need.  There was really nothing left but to either start the project or find some reason to procrastinate further.  After delaying until about 5 o'clock Saturday night and then decided to push forward and remove the windshield.

The windshield was easier to remove than I expected.  I essentially cut away the portion of the gasket holding in the windshield and lightly pushed it out from the inside.  My daughter and I then picked it up and set it on a mat behind the Mustang.  I then pulled the rest of the seal off the car with no effort.  Surprisingly, there was almost no sealant and under the gasket was mostly just accumulated dirt which would have made any plan to just reseal it in the car fail.

Before calling it a night, I cleaned up the mounting surface.  There is really no rust at all and all of the little stubs that the trim clips mount to are in good shape.  I then watched the two videos again that I'm using as a guide to do the job properly:

Mustangs to Fear Video (Part 1)

Mustangs to Fear Video (Part 2)

On Sunday morning, I cleaned more of the pinch seam that the windshield mounts to using a small wire wheel, a 3M 100 grit sanding block, and then a 3M 180 grit sanding block.  I wiped everything down several times with paint thinner.  There were a few areas of surface rust but no holes clean through (one is super close in the middle at the top).  I coated those areas with some VHT Rust Converter (SP229) and waited until the rust turned black but not the full recommended 24 hours (only about 1.5 hours).

After the Rust Converter was somewhat dry, I coated everything with some Rust-oleum dark grey primer (#2089830) and waited 30 minutes for it to dry.  I then top coated it with some Rust-oleum satin black (#7777830).  While I four hours for all of that to dry, I worked on cleaning up the windshield edges with a razor blade and some window cleaner.  

With the window clean, I dry installed the gasket on the windshield and ran a 1/4" nylon rope in the rubber that seals around the car's pinch weld.  I taped the excess to the center of the windshield on the inside portion of the glass.  I'll use this later to pull the inside lip of the rubber gasket around the pinch weld.  

I covered the hood and top of the car with plastic drop cloth and taped it right up to the edge of where the trim would land on the body.  I covered the top of the dash with painter's tape.  While it all initially felt a little like overkill, I don't know if you can have enough protection for this type of project.  With that done, I took off the rearview mirror which I almost forgot and installed all the windshield trim clips.

I put a medium size bead of CRL-7708 on the windshield side of the pinch weld.  On the top and bottom, I put it right into the corner of the body panel.  I made sure to get it good around the clips so that they would not be dry.  I then put a medium size bead on the gasket on the side which faces the interior but not on the rubber which is actually pulled into the interior.  All said, I used one full tube.  I really expected to use more but it seems like I had plenty.

My son helped with installing the windshield.  We lifted it up and sat it on the bottom pinch weld in the middle.  We pushed it down so that it seated in the middle and then worked to center up the windshield using some reference marks I made before removing the windshield.  The windshield kept shifting to the passenger side so we had to keep checking it while we worked to pull the ropes to seat the bottom.  

The gasket caught on a rough piece of metal and ripped a little on the inside bottom portion passenger side but there was no turning back.  Sealant was squirting out of the small tear so I'm sure it sealed but it bothers me.  We worked up both of the sides of the glass with my son hitting the windshield while I pulled the rope and pushed the seal into place.  We then did the same along the top.  The bottom and sides seem quite seated as does the top except in the corners.  I slapped the windshield repeatedly trying to work it into place for quite some time.  

I'm sure the CRL-7708 with harden up some but still stay flexible.  I'm wanting to see how the top corners turn out when that happens.  You can push down on the top corners and it will move in some on both sides.  However, I can't get the top or sides to budge any and it is fully seated at the bottom so there is nowhere else really to adjust to fix it.  I've got plenty of sealant in the corners so if it firms up a bit there will be nothing to worry about.

I have some 3M 08609 which is a urethane sealant which I'm going to use between the outermost seal and the windshield.  I've not seen too many do it this way but this is how the Mustangs to Fear video suggested do it and it seems a solid approach.  He waited until the following morning to do that part and I'll do the same.

Before calling it an evening, I cleaned everything with mineral spirits first and then with Windex.  The sealant makes a huge mess but I was able to get everything off.  I used almost a full roll of paper towels and likely 15 pairs of gloves.  I imagine the part that is left will be much easier.

Today, Monday, I sealed the gap between the glass itself and the gasket with 3M 08609 exactly as described in the Mustangs to Fear videos.  I then waited several hours until it was hardened and installed the trim around the outside.  Everything went together well and I'm glad this project is done.  If it does not seal perfectly, it will no doubt be better than before.  I'm not sure yet if I want to test it out.  

HRPT Prep 21 - Another Test Drive & Fender Emblems

Last night, I decided to install a few emblems I ordered that came in the mail yesterday.  I decided to install them in the driver fender as it is the aftermarket fender that I painted to match the rest of the car as best I could.  It looks a little off without the emblems and looks out of place to me.  I'm hoping this helps it blend in a bit more with the rest of the car.

The two emblems are both from Scott Drake.  The pony emblem is a C7ZZ-16229-C and uses pins to attach it to the fender.  The MUSTANG letters are part number C5ZZ-6540282- SK and stick on with 3M tape.  The pony emblem matches the original and fits in the exact same holes.  I had to drill them though due to the new fender but I had the original to make a template of the placement from.  The MUSTANG letters are slightly smaller than stock but I spaced them out just like the originals even though they are a little smaller.

This morning I pulled the car out and looked at the emblem placement in the sun which is better than my garage lighting at 9PM.  My first thought was that they looked a little off.  However, I measured and each letter is 5 9/16" to the bottom from the top of the molding.  They are in the perfect spot but it could just be the body lines that are not parallel to the ground throwing me off.



I'm not proud of it but there are some small rust spots in the truck floor and in the rear deck panel by the trunk lid that I 'fixed' today so they will not leak on the trip.  The holes in the trunk floor are actually at the seam with the wheel wells.  I 'fixed' this with just a bit bead of black RTV so that I can clean it off to repair it right later.  I then used metal with a thin coat of JB Weld placed under the rust spots in the rear deck so they would be completely sealed.  It doesn't look horrible but will be solid enough to stay and not allow any leaks.

I then worked on the radio to get the color set back right, and all the tone controls right.  I confirmed the oil level is good, there were no leaks from yesterday (coolant or oil).  Everything under the hood looks great.  I checked the fuel sender wiring and it is on there solid so I'm not sure if the fluctuations were just because it was low on fueld or what.  Since all looked well, I decided to go for another drive.

This time I drove around at 2 o'clock with temperatures only at 82 degrees.  I drove a bit around town mostly 30 mph with stop lights and then hit the highway and drove 70 mph for quite a while.  In total, I drove around for about an hour and 20 minutes and put 65 miles on the car.  

The car is working great.  The car has 33 PSI of oil pressure at idle and about 50 PSI when cruising around in almost any gear.  I'm enjoying the new transmission and going 74 at 2,200-2,300 RPM.  The car stayed between 180 and 185 for the entire drive.  I confirmed the speedometer with a GPS app on my phone and the speedometer is perfect.

The only new thing I noticed is a guy stopped beside me at a light to tell me that my brake lights don't work.  I'll need to check the wiring to the brake pedal as something must have come loose when I finished up that work.  I'm glad he stopped to say something or I would have never thought to check.

Some type of Audi wanted to race me.  I normally don't bother but for some reason I did.  He caught me by surprise leaving the stop light and I stayed at his back fender from then until we hit 65 or 70.  I'm not sure what type of Audit it was because I was really paying no attention.  Funny enough, I was changing the song on the radio and flipped to Fuel by Metallic as the light changed and he punched it.  By looking at a few online, I'm wondering if it was a Audi Q5 which will go zero to 60 in 5.6 and the quarter mile in 14.2 which is about what I think my car would do at this point. 

HRPT Prep 20 - First Real Test Drive & Windshield Prep

Today, I left work a little early and went for a relatively short drive at around 4:30 in the afternoon.  The temperature outside was 90 degrees and I drove for about 50 minutes for a total of 35 miles.  I drove in some stop/go traffic, through a few areas with a 30 mph speed limit, and then ended the trip with a good stretch at 55 mph.  The engine temperature was always between 180 and 195 with is mostly being towards the higher end unless I was going 55 mph.  None of that was done with the A/C running.

The new clutch feels great and is super easy on the leg.  The brakes still feel a little soft but it matches up well with the clutch pedal feel and I can easily stop.  The power steering was great with no problems.  I checked when I made it home and there were no coolant leaks including the small place where I noticed a puddle a few weeks back.

I did notice a slight metal vibration noise when accelerating down one road.  I could not place it but wonder if it might be that the parking brake lever is touching the exhaust.  I'll check once everything cools back down.  It is a little hard to start when hot so I'll want to check the timing again.  The gas gauge seemed to fluctuate a lot with 5 gallons in the tank so I'll need to confirm the sending wire isn't loose.  The last thing is simple but I need to reset the radio as I lost all my presets and customization when the battery was disconnected.

Next, I'll need to find a route that is a bit more like the Power Tour route which was announced earlier this week.  I imagine the drive is much slower with many more stops.  That would be good to replicate in the coming days or weeks.

In other news, I checked and have the gasket for the front windshield, a full set of clips with some extras, and some 3M 08609 sealant.  The sealant was the wrong type and no one anywhere seems to have the proper 3M 05809.  I ended up purchasing some CRL-7708 which seems to be the exact same type stuff but just not made by 3M.  Now the question is if I do this myself...

HRPT Prep 19 - Small Project Day

This weekend was Mother's Day and I only had a little time on Sunday to get some work done.  I started with installing a new set of MSD Street Fire (#5543) spark plug wires.  They are the same set that I installed several years ago but my current set has two wires that have touched the exhaust.  This new set was almost identical except they no longer use copper connectors and a few of them are shorter than before but not in a way that makes them harder to install.

While installing the new plug wires, I swapped out the plugs with a new set of NGK FR5 7373 plugs.  The old plugs were in awesome shape so it wasn't entirely necessary but I'll save the old ones in the spare parts bin.  The new set came gapped to .043 so I left them that way put a little antiseize on them and tightened them into place.  While everything was out, I took the opportunity to check the torque on all the header bolts now that they have gone through a few heat cycles.  

With that spark plug job done, I trimmed the speedometer cable grommet to fit around the new clutch linkage and and pushed it into place.  The seal is nice and tight so I don't expect any problems from it.  

I purchased a Summit Racing feed line set (SUM-220100BN-B) for the carburetor as the current setup has leaked a little and I thought using something a little more insulated would be a good idea.  Unfortunately, it requires removing the built in filters that are in each inlet to the carburetor.  That seemed like a bad idea so I just took all the fittings on the carburetor feed line I have apart and put some Permatex fuel resistant sealant (#85420) on them all.

The last thing I worked on was modifying a clutch fork cover for the transmission.  I'm disappointed the one I ordered didn't fit and when I ordered another brand, it was the same part with a different label over the top which fit just as poorly.  I had to cut the portion that slides into the transmission to reshape it and then drilled a hole in the back end for the bleed line to protrude through.  With the modifications done, I coated it with some Rustoleum satin black.  I'm going to let that dry overnight tonight and then install it after work tomorrow.

I now have only three weekends until I leave for Power Tour and one of those my daughter graduates from high school and we will have family over.  I've not really put many miles on the car with all these modifications.  I'd hoped to address that this weekend but it rained all weekend long.  In addition to driving, I have the following on my list that I'd like to get done:

• Reseal windshield
• Address A/C leak & trinary switch failure
• A/C idle solenoid
• Adjust parking brake

HRPT Prep 18 - More Coolant Leaks!

Today, I stared up the Mustang and let it run for a few minutes to get it up to temperature.  I then topped off the coolant and ran it for about 20 minutes to check the cooling system.  I didn't expect any leak and really didn't look for a while.  When I did, I noticed a leak on the driver side at the timing cover.  Strangely, it was only on the engine side of the gasket.

I cleaned up the small amount of coolant with paper towels.  I then checked the bolts and they were all fairly tight but I added a little more torque.  I then started it again and watched closely for the source of the leak.  However, it did not leak.  I let it run for 25 minutes and no leak.  Once it cooled, I tightened all these bolts again to about the same level of torque which is closer to 30 than 20.

I'm not sure what to think of it.  I really didn't expect the amount of additional torque I added to the timing cover/water pump bolts to fix it.  I've done this job four times now and it has always leaked somewhere but never in this spot.  I'm hopeful that it is fixed but rather doubtful.

I adjusted the fan controller to turn on at just above 180 degrees.  With the testing for the coolant leak, I had several opportunities to confirm the fan controller is set properly.  However, in the process, I noticed that the fans do not come on with the A/C which is something I'll need to look into further.  

I also didn't realize but the #1 spark plug was on the header and burnt.  As always, it seems like one step forward and two steps back.  At least the car is running again... hopefully without a leak.

HRPT Prep 17 - Cooling System Upgrade & Leaks (Part 4)

I took this past weekend off but resumed work on the car Monday after work.  I'd really like to finish up this project with the cooling system this week.  I'm running low on time as I have five weeks to fix the windshield, check the A/C, and put some test miles on the car.

On Monday, I installed all the belts, the shroud and fan, radiator overflow, and then started work on cleaning up the fan controller wiring a little.  The ignition wire which feeds the choke and the fan relay is really thin.  I replaced it with a new wire and then began working on cleaning up the wiring for the fan controller.  I didn't get to finish it up as I was missing a few crimp connectors.

On Tuesday, I primarily worked on the fan wiring and some new wiring I'll use for installing a Holley 46-74 AC solenoid that will hold the idle up when the A/C is on.  Wiring always takes longer than I expect.  It isn't the wiring itself but me being perfectionistic.  I want all the wires the right length, wrapped, hidden, and then the associated relays well mounted.  Unfortunately, I only have maybe half of that done.

On Wednesday, I didn't do much but I installed the upper radiator hose, filled the system with Coolant and WaterWetter, and then started zip tying some of the wiring that I've been working on the last few days.  I also ordered a couple different colors of wire for the last of the fan and A/C solenoid wiring. 

On Thursday, I received the new wiring, wired up the relays, and started running the wires from the relays out to the fan controller, ignition power, and A/C trigger.  I'm going to convert the old voltage regulator box into a mounting point for the relays.  Not much overall but it was a little progress.  

On Saturday, I finished up wiring the fan control and most of the A/C solenoid.  I'm going to save the rest of the A/C solenoid as I need to test for a negative trigger when the A/C is running.  I then cleaned up, fixed a dent in the bottom, and painted the oil pan.  I misted some paint (Duplicolor Universal Silver Metallic BUN0600) on the valve covers as they were showing a bit of wear and lightly sanded the letters to make them bare aluminum again.

On Sunday, I installed the valve covers on the Mustang with some Black Ultra VTV on the valve cover side of the gasket.  I tightened them and checked them three times to ensure everything was snug.  I checked the torque of the connecting rod nuts (20 ft/lbs.) and the main caps (70 ft/lbs.).  I then cleaned the oil pan sealing surface of the block with mineral spirits, cleaned up the bolts, and then installed the pan with a new FelPro OS13260 gasket with some Black Ultra RTV.  

I used the RTV in the corners of the oil pan gasket as normal but also along the back of the crank area.  This is where it has always leaked in the past.  This means it will likely rip apart if I try to take it apart but it did that anyway before when I did not use much RTV.  Might as well make this time count and seal it up really well before trying to go on any road trips.

While I had the oil pan off, I also looked at the cylinder walls and up into the motor at the cam.  The cross hatching is still apparent in all of the cylinders.  The tips of the lobes of the cam are polished much more than the rest of the lobe.  None of the cam lobes seemed to have any weird or especially worn look to them.  I didn't expect anything to look off but figured it was worth a look.

Unfortunately, in the short period of time since installing the freshly painted transmission block off plate, oil ran down it enough to discolor all the paint.  I managed to get a second coat on it while everything is in the car.  This made the project take a little longer as I needed it to dry before the pan could be installed.  Regardless, it is all back together now.