Ignition Problem Strikes Again!

When driving 70 MPH yesterday, I noticed the tachometer read 2,600 RPM. With a 25.5" rear tire and the new 3.25 gear, I should run near 3,000 RPM at 70MPH. This would lead me to believe the new 18 tooth speedometer gear is not correct. I asked my wife to follow me around the block so we could see if the speedometer is indeed off and if so by how much.

I started the Mustang to warm it up and it died after about two minutes. I tried to start it again but it would not start. I immediately started troubleshooting parts as I know from past experience this intermitent problem does not last long.

I disconnected a spark plug wire (#5 cylinder) and connected it to a test tool. The test tool connects to a ground and has a small, adjustable gap. If the ingition is working, you can see the spark jump across the gap. This was not occurring so I know the problem is ignition related.

I then grabbed the spare coil from the trunk and installed it in the car. I left the spark plug tool in place and tried to start the car. I still had no luck starting the car and no spark. The only thing left are the components inside the distributor (primarily the Ignitor I).

I was not sure how to check the Ignitor. After a few minutes, I tried to start the car and it started just fine. I searched the internet and found the following image which contains the test procedure for an Ignitor. If I can get this to happen again, I'll test the Ignitor.

I'm ready to begin driving the Mustang again. This has me tempted to go ahead and buy a replacement Ignitor points conversion kit. However, there is now an Ignitor I, II, and II kit. Each works best with a different coil which stinks as I just purchased the one which works best with an Ignitor I.

I considered buying a new distributor but most are billet and would look entirely out of place. My distributor currently in the Mustang is not original to the car. The part number for the distributor is F3OF-17127-HB. The part number for the correct distributor is C7OF-12127A.

Rear End Project Complete

I finished up the rear axle restoration this morning.

Last night, I torqued all the bolts down properly. I then installed the drum brake hardware on the driver side. I moved to the driver's side and found I was missing one of part of the drum hardware. I called it a night and planned to buy the missing part this morning.

I drove around for almost an hour and a half trying to track down the missing drum brake part. It was one of the special washers used with a spring to hold the brake shoe to the backing plate. Two places said they had a set but could never find them. The only place I was able to get a set was in North Bryan.

I came back and finished up the driver's side brake. I then put the axle vent hose on with a hose clamp, installed the driveshaft, and then connected the parking brake lines. I was then able to put the rear wheels on and take the car off the jack stands.

I drove around rather slowly at first to make sure everything worked fine. The rear end might be a little quieter. The car does not seem much faster than it was before but its been 1.5 months since I last drove it. The RPMs do increase much faster so I'll need to get used to it so I don't do anything stupid.

I tested the TrueTrac differential on a paved road with no houses. It works well without any jerk or indication that the limited slip has activated. I expected a greater performance increase than I noticed with the new gears. It seems a little faster but not much.

I drove down the road at 70 MPH and the RPM gauge only read 2,600. I thought I purchased the correct speedometer gear but this can't be correct. I'll need to have my wife follow me in my truck to determine how far off the speedometer is before driving it too much.

I've noticed a small rattle in the passenger door over the last couple of months. Today the rattle was much worse. I took off the door panel and found it was the window regulator roller rattling in the track. I used a body hammer to tighten the track a little and then coated the tracks with lubricant. This fixed the rattle and the window now works much better.

Evening Work on the Rear Axle

I've spent a little time after work yesterday and today on the Mustang. I really want it in working order by this weekend. Work has been stressful and I want the project done. I'm doing a little in the evenings so I can spend more time this weekend relaxing for the week ahead at work.

Last night, I installed the brake backing plates, wheel cylinders, brake junction/hose, and then ran the brake lines. I rolled the rear axle under the car on my creeper and positioned it on the leaf springs which were still laying on the ground (but connected at the front). I put on the U-bolts, spring plates, and nuts. At this point, I called it a night.

Tonight, I installed the axles and put gear oil in the rear axle. I then raised one leaf spring at a time to install the shackles. It was a little difficult to get everything to line up on the shackles but they are in.

The remaining work includes:
- Connect rear shocks
- Torque shackle bolts
- Torque U-bolts
- Connect rubber brake line
- Reinstall drum brake hardware
- Bleed brakes
- Install driveshaft

I'll easily be able to complete this project by Saturday morning. It has started to rain and is expected to rain on Saturday. I hope everything dries quickly so I can drive around some this weekend.

New Alpine Radio

I need a new radio for the Mustang. I've looked at new radios but did not like the styling of them. They look more modern than I would like. Additionally, the displays are now multi-color when the old Alpine matched the dash illumination very well.

I've checked eBay a few times over the past few weeks for another radio. I found an Alpine CD player for $40 on eBay and placed a bid. A few hours later, I found I won for $46. The radio is not new but should work out well. I can then use the $100 I saved on something else.

Here is the picture of the radio from the auction:

Installation of 3rd Member

I decided I would install the 3rd member tonight. Three days have past since I painted the housing so the paint is now fully dry.

I coated the gasket with RTV and then waited 10 minutes for the RTV to setup. I then put the gasket on and slid on the 3rd member. I then noticed the gasket was too large and would be visible all around the outside of the 3rd member. This detracted from the appearance but there was nothing I could really do at this point.

I placed a copper washer on each stud and then started hand tightening the nuts. I could only tighten them so far with my hand and then used a socket wrench. After working each one down, I noticed the paint chipped from the 3rd member around every bolt. I thought I would touch them up later but the more I tightened, the more the washer expanded, and the more paint came off.

I took all the nuts and washers off. I tried to clean up the chipped areas but it does not look near as good as it once did. I installed the washer and nut with the paint wet so it would sink in rather than chip. This worked but the paint still wrinkled up around the nut. Additionally, the clear coat wrinkled and cracked in several areas.

I should have called it quits earlier but kept pushing on and getting more and more aggrivated. I've called it a night now. I have all the nuts on except the one which holds on the tag. I can't get it tight and keep the tag straight. If I try to hold it straight, the tag just starts to bend up because it is so thin.

Hopefully I'll have better luck tomorrow.