The job of installing the starter and flywheel was difficult. Since the starter is trapped between the flywheel and exhaust, I had to hold it in place while I align the flywheel and bolt it up. I weighed these parts and they are each about 17 pounds. If I had three hands it would have been significantly easier.
When I mounted the flywheel I reused the original bolts. I installed them with thread sealant and High Strength Loc-Tite. They were then torqued down to 85 ft/lbs per the Shop Manual. I cleaned the resurfaced face of the flywheel with Acetone and then installed the clutch and pressure plate.
I cleaned the pressure plate with Acetone and then held it and the clutch in position. I started each of the original six bolts to hold the pieces in place. I then used the lose transmission input shaft to line up the clutch with the new Ford Racing roller pilot bearing I installed. The input shaft slide into place easily and held everything in alignment while I removed the bolts one at a time, coated them with Loc-Tite, and then torqued them down in the proper sequence to 20 ft/lbs (per the Shop Manual).
I’ve not cleaned up the bellhousing bolts so I decided to install the input shaft in the transmission. I loaded it with 15 bearings and a new brass blocking ring and slid it into place. I then rolled over the transmission and lined up the dummy countershaft bar (made of PVC) so I could install the real countershaft. I tapped the countershaft into place from the rear of the transmission and then put in the new roll pin through the fill hole.
The last thing I did was put RTV on two spots at the front of the transmission. I covered the shift rail plug and the end of the countershaft with RTV. I then smoothed it out using a small putty knife. This is done to ensure no oil is able to leak out between the casing and either of these shafts.
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