After warming up the engine last night and driving around the block, I decided to go ahead and change the oil. Comp Cams recommends you break in your cam and then replace the oil. Since the engine was still warm, now was the perfect time as anything the oil has captured should still be suspended in the oil.
The oil was originally a light yellow color. It does not look as dark as oil normally does after a 3,000 mile oil change. However, it does have a slightly darker color than originally. I'm sure some of this is discoloration from the rings and cam surfaces developing a wear pattern. Additionally, the engine was assembled with Moly grease (dark grey/black) and I used a little over two packages of the Comp Cams 103 assembly lube (red color) on the top end.
The break-in oil was 10w30 and worked fairly well. I seem to have at least 50 psi of oil pressue no matter what. As the RPM increases, the oil pressue does but only slightly. At about 2,000 RPM , the oil pressure is around 62 psi. As a result, I think 10w30 should work fine and that is what I used to replace the break-in oil.
The oil I placed in the engine is Brad Penn Grade 1 10w30. This is a high performance, partial synthetic oil which includes increased zinc for flat tappett cam applications. The oil is a little strange as it is green in color. I've read many claims that it remains on engine parts longer than most oils for better cold start coverage. Who knows.
I also installed a Wix oil filter (#51515) rather than the Motorocraft FL1A I used to break-in the cam. I'll be cutting open the Motorcraft filter before long to see what is in the filter. I'll likely do the same with the Wix when it is time for the next oil change. I can then compare how they look internally to see if one appears to be better than the other.
I drove around a little after the oil change and the oi8l pressure remains the same. With this green oil, I can certainly tell if there are any oil leaks. I noticed a little leaking from the rear seal which is disturbing but I tried to tell myself it was something with the break-in oil which made it seep out a little more. Hopefully it stopes but if not, there will be no denying a green spot on the floor. I don't have anyting else which is green I could blame it on.
The milage at this oil change was 1362. The odomete rinstalled when I purchased the Mustang was a '68 odometer so I know it is not original. I doubt the individual who swapped the guage cluster set the omoeter to be correct. The speedometer was off so the odometer was no doubt wrong also. I just decided to reset the odometer from the point I purchased the car and have been running with that mileage since. I thought of resetting it with the new engine but I'll just keep it as I have it now.
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