I tried to install the DB Electrical 3223 mini-starter yesterday. The starter is slightly too large to fit into the block plate opening. After I set the two side by side, I noticed the snout on the end of the starter is not long enough. If the starter were to engage, it appears it would be about a half inch too short. I emailed the DB Electrical about the issue to see if they have one which will work for me.
I spent some time using the new A/F gauge to tune the car. When I started, the car was idling at 1,000 RPM, vacuum was at 15", and the A/F ratio was 11:1 (quite rich). I took the carburetor off and adjusted the secondary throttle blades to open them up some. This would allow me to close the idle set screw some exposing less of the transition slot in the primaries.
After this adjustment, I could set the idle down to about 800 RPM without trouble. This obviously decreased my vacuum down to the 12-13 range. However, my A/F ratio was then at 13:1.
I'd turned in the secondary throttle blade adjustment screw a 1/4 turn about two years ago. My first change set it a little more open than original. I pulled it off and turned the screw in some more to open the secondaries. This lets me close the primaries, exposing less of the transition slot. I made these changes and now have the 12-13" vacuum, 13:1 A/F, and still idle at around 800 RPM.
I really need a new distributor as I'm currently only able to run about 14 degrees advance (due to 22 mechanical minimum with my factory distributor). I need to have that to 18 or 20. When I tested it this weekend (without driving), setting the timing to 18 gives me 15" of vacuum and leaves my A/F about the same. Unfortunately, I can't leave it this way as I'll have 40 degrees total advance.
While tuning, I noticed the rattle noise I heard under the car was the exhaust rattling against a parking brake bracket. I loosened up the clamps once it cooled down and repositioned them. This stopped the rattle noise.
I also worked on the shifter some as it makes a rattle noise when in second gear. I have already used the rebuild kit. This time, I stretched out the springs some to stiffen up the assembly. I also put some grease in the cups on the sides of the shifter to make sure they were lubricated. I then tightened it all together with some medium thread locker on the bolts. I'm afraid the rattle is caused by a loose set pin which is in the bottom part that the shift lever connects to. I'll find out when I get to drive it a little more.
I drove the car around the block late this evening and found the A/F ratio is all over the place while driving. I tried to isolate each circuit when driving but it is difficult. I'm running very lean (16+:1) when accelerating but drop back to a reasonable level when cruising. It is still a little wet on the roads so I'll wait until it dries up some to do more testing.
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