On Tuesday, I began the installation of the new T5z and Tilton throw out bearing this evening. I didn't get an incredible amount done but installed the new block plate, pressure plate (after cleaning with break cleaning and running a tap through the bolt holes), installed the clutch and pressure plate. All the ARP bolts were reused and cleaned first with a small wire wheel. I used the red high strength LocTite and torqued the flywheel bolts to 75 ft/lbs and the pressure plate bolts to 30 ft/lbs.
On Wednesday, I started by removing the ring of counterweights from the Centerforce pressure plate. The instructions from MDL indicate they must be removed or there will be inconsistent clutch release and excessive pressure at high RPMs. Once this was removed, I cleaned up the bellhousing casting a little using some 320 sandpaper and then installed it using a new set of ARP bolts (part# 154-0903) I ordered. I torqued them all down to 45 ft/lbs but did not use any type of LocTite on them.
On Thursday, I set the appropriate amount of spacing for the new Tilton slide-on throw out bearing. It is a bit of a process because you need to measure the bellhousing mounting surface to the pressure point fingers. You then measure from the front mounting surface of the transmission to the leading edge of the throw out bearing. There is a threaded slip collar that you adjust to take up space leaving only .125" (+ or - .025") space between the leading edge of the throw out bearing and the clutch fingers.
I set this on Thursday and then checked it again and made an additional adjustment this morning before putting in the transmission. The following are the measurements in the event I want them again later.
Strangely, the initial challenge was just to get the new Tilton throw out bearing to slide on to the input shaft retainer. There is a little rubber O-ring on the inside of the slip collar and it did not want to slide on. I used a little oil and transmission fluid but had no luck. It was literally thousands from fitting, so I called Modern Driveline. They said to clean everything well, run emery cloth over the input bearing retainer to remove any surface imperfections from heat treatment and install with dish soap. Oil will swell the O-ring when dish soap will not. Sure enough, that worked.
It is an interesting part. The rubber O-ring has no sealing purpose. It holds the threaded inner adjustment sleeve so that it will not rotate on the input shaft during use. The Tilton housing itself is kept from rotating by swapping out one of the input bearing retainer bolts with a long shaft that the Tilton unit slides along. You can but the long stud if needed but mine did not protrude long enough for it to matter. You can see it in the picture with everything mounted up below.
Aaron helped me to get the transmission in place and mounted up. As you would imagine, it fits perfectly where the old one did with the new bellhousing and other components.
I then touched up the paint on the MDL transmission crossmember and installed it followed by the starter, speedometer cable with 21 tooth gear, and connected the reverse lights. I'm not going to kill myself today getting everything back installed. I mainly wanted to get the transmission in as it is a bigger job and certainly not something I would want to do after work during the week.
At this point, I think I have the following left to do as part of this project:
- Install driveshaft and torque the retaining U bolts.
- Fill transmission with transmission fluid.
- Run hydraulic lines and create brackets to keep them safe.
- Install bellhousing clutch fork dust cover.
- Zip tie speedometer cable out of the way.
- Reinstall shift, carpet, sill plate, & shift boot
- Tighten hydraulic line fittings at master cylinder.
- Mount clutch reservoir and fill with brake fluid.
- Adjust clutch mechanism at pedal.
- Bleed hydraulic clutch system.
- Adjust parking brake setup.
So I have it recorded, the current odometer reading is 5215.
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