Preparing for Ford Nationals - AC Part 2 - Compressor Install 2

After work today, I picked up a Fel-Pro Timing Cover Gasket Set (TCS-45008), Permatex Water Pump & Thermostat Housing Gasket Maker, a tube of Loctite Thread Sealant, and 9' of 5/8" heater hose.  After eating dinner, I started work on the air conditioning system.

I installed the crank pulley which came with the Classic Auto Air System.  I then moved on to reinstalling the water pump.  Afterwards, I installed the alternator and the alternator bracket.  This allowed me to install the front compressor bracket and then the compressor itself. 

I then encountered my first problem when I went to install the newly painted water pump pulley.  I found that it no longer fit as it contacted the crank pulley.  I reviewed the paperwork and it seems that the system will only work if you have a water pump pulley under 6".

This was a bit of a disappointment as I still want to buy a radiator shroud and a new electric fan that will work with it.  I really didn't want to spend more money or different parts when I expected the water pump pulley to work.  However, I did find a smaller water pump pulley 5.82" on eBay which is an OEM Ford pump with the same offset so I purchased it tonight.  I'll need to switch to working on something else as it will take it a bit to arrive so I can finish up the under hood components.

The label and numbers on the compressor are not visible when installed.  I took the following picture to reference those numbers if needed later.

Preparing for Ford Nationals - AC Part 1 - Compressor Install

Today, I started work on installing the Classic Auto Air system beginning with the compressor.

In advance of today, I painted the compressor mounting brackets and the spacers for their installation.  I painted them with a remaining can of the Semi-Flat Black Krylon that matches the under hood paint I did years ago.  

The first bracket I installed was the mount which attaches to the engine head.  The bolts included in the kit were not long enough (1" rather than 1.25").  Additionally, they were 7/16" bolts when I needed 1/2" bolts.  Before installing the first bolt, I already had to run to the store for more parts.

Once that was installed, I gathered the parts to install the front bracket for the compressor.  This requires removal of the water pump pulley, alternator, alternator bracket, and several water pump bolts.  I also drained the anti-freeze so it would not start leaking as I removed the various bolts holding everything in place.

Once I had those items removed, I decided to go ahead and remove the water pump.  The retaining bolts have been leaking and the gasket is likely no good.  This will give me an opportunity to pick up a new gasket and replace it.  I can also touch up some of the engine paint which was discolored by leaking anti-freeze.

Since I have everything out, I cleaned up the water pump pulley, alternator bracket, and the water pump and touched them up with another coat of paint.  I'll let them dry and pick up a water pump gasket before moving forward.

Preparing for Ford Nationals - Clutch Pedal Rattle

I've tried to figure out the rattle I hear down near the clutch pedal area for a while now.  The noise actually started when I was on my way back from the Goodguys show two years ago.

As I was thinking about it, I considered it might be the lower bolt which holds the bottom of the driver fender.  It was a little lose so I tightened it but doubted it was the cause.  I put my hand on the top of the fender to get up and heard it make a similar noise as the fender was not tight.  If I lightly pushed up an down on it, I could replicate the rattle/squeak noise I've been hearing.  

I searched looking around and realized I never reinstalled the bracket which accepts a fender bolt through the door opening.  I searched the attic and found that I took them off, never cleaned them up, and just threw them in a box.  I stripped them two weeks ago and painted them black.  This is one of them...

The bracket mounts as shown below.  Then a bolt runs through the square hole at the top into a J-clip on a matching bracket which is part of the fender.  This then holds the fender tight so it does not rub or tap against the molding around the windshield which is near touching the fender.  

I've not driven the car again yet to confirm but I'm quite sure now that this was the rattle/squeak noise that I would hear.  

Preparing for Ford Nationals - Headlight Relay & Firewall Grommets

Before the trip to Tulsa, I decided to install a headlight relay harness.  There are two main reasons:

1. Using a relay harness rather than routing headlight power through the switch allows for higher voltage at the light which equates to a brighter headlight.
2. Since the headlight power and draw is not pulled through the headlight switch, it is less prone to overheat.  When the headlight switch overheats, the lights turn off until it cools down.

While I could build my own headlight harness, I decided to use a RedLine LumTronix (part# EH-001) from CJ Pony parts.  The harness is well made, with proper length wiring, and insulation covering the wires.  If I could improve it in any way, it would be to make the H4 connectors for the headlights just slightly smaller.  They were slightly larger than stock and would not route through the holes through the grill brackets like the factory light wiring.  

The harness was rather easy to install but there is not much to show of it in pictures.  The relays are mounted to a bracket behind the passenger side headlight.  I'm honestly not able to tell an incredible amount of different in the brightness but they do appear a little brighter.

After the install was done, I thought the dimmer switch would not work.  Upon taking everything apart, I found the kick panel was putting pressure on the grommet in the carpet around the dimmer switch.  This pressure would not let the dimmer switch work.  After a little rearrangement, it seems to be working just fine.  

As part of finishing this project and the amplifer installation, I was able to seal up the remaining holes in the firewall.  So that takes another item off the list for Tulsa.

Remaining Items for Tulsa:
Lubricate U-Joints & Check Nut Torque
Check Air/Fuel Ratio
Fix Rattle by Clutch Pedal
Fix Squeaky Leaf Sprints
Add Air Conditioning (Includes Parts to Block Cowl Vents)
Fix Anti-Freeze Leaks
Add Fan Shroud

Preparing for Ford Nationals - Finishing Subwoofer Installation

I've worked a bit sporadically on carpeting the subwoofer box.  I covered it in carpet in two stages by covering the box first, then just the back of the divider panel, and then the front of the divider panel after the divider panel was screwed to the box.  This sounds rather simple but was a bit difficult to align the box and divider panel so that everything fit in the car perfectly.  

Once carpeted, I bolted it into place using the stock holes.  The fit was so tight that once carpeted, it almost did not fit.  It took a few taps with a hammer to get it into place.  The panel is 3/4" thick so it protrudes out from the metal some but does not cause a problem with installing the seat in place.  There are some bars on the back of the seat which run on either side of the speaker without touching it so everything went together quite well.

The subwoofer is a Kenwood KFC-XW1000F.

I ordered a Stinger amplifer installation kit with 8 gauge wire which I used to install the amplifer.  I didn't particularly like the non-standard blue power wire but the entire kit appears to be of really good quality.

The box is actually offset slightly (about 1") to the driver side while the speaker is still centered from the front.  This was done to allow enough space for the amplifer to be mounted on the passenger side of the divider panel.  

The amplifer is a Kenwood X500-1.

I'll probably work on it a bit more to have the trunk mat slide up under the box.  The box fits so snug that it will take a little work.  However, I think it will finish it up and make it look best.  For now, I just have the mat run straight up the back of the box.  

I was originally hesitant to add a subwoofer as it is just added weight and should not be necessary.  However, on the last road trip, I could not hear the stereo well so I decided to add front speakers.  With them added, I found they just can't handle any bass due to their small size (5.25").  This lead to wanting to turn on the high pass crossover in the radio but all the radios I checked would only apply the filter to all speakers.  I had all the amp and subwoofer left over from my old truck so I decided I'd install them for some better sound but also to turn on the high pass filter so the new front speakers to play loudly and not distort.

The stereo system sounds quite good now.  I'll just need to work on adjusting it so it sounds the best possible.