I expected the driver side of the tunnel to be a little easier to shape to match the underlying transmission crossmember... I was wrong. I used the same hammer and dolley technique with some heat. I tried to work it as slowly as possible but it was a little over 1/2" off along the lower edge of the tunnel.
I performed all the welds along the toe board and up the transmission tunnel. I've not ground them down at this point. I should go ahead and do it but I'm taking a break for now. It is 100 degrees it feels like a suana welding out there in the garage.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Saturday, July 2, 2011
Welding Tunnel Area of Floorboard
I worked on the Mustang for a few hours this morning.
Last weekend, I welded up the passenger side of the floorpan to the rocker panel. After welding, I ground down the welds and top coated with some red primer.
This weekend I wanted to work on the tunnel area of the floorpan. This section fits the worst of the entire floorpan. The floorpan does not match up to the contour of the transmission crossmember. As a result, I'd need to work the metal a little to get it to fit.
I started today by screwing through the holes in the driver side of the floorpan to attach it to the rocker panel. I then tacked the top, center of the floorpan tunnel in place. I used a blow torch to heat up the metal on the floor and used a hammer and dolley to stretch the metal to fit the crossmember contour.
When I started, the floorpan was about 1/4" - 1/2" from the crossmember. To stretch it, I heated the metal, placed the metalwork side of the dolley on the floor, and then hit the backside with a hammer. The contour of the dolley matched up with the crossmember which formed the floor just right.
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I welded up the passenger side of the tunnell and toe board. I then welded the driver side of the floorpan to the rocker panel. I still need to work on the driver side portion of the tunnel and the toe board. I'm saving this portion of the job for another day.
Last weekend, I welded up the passenger side of the floorpan to the rocker panel. After welding, I ground down the welds and top coated with some red primer.
This weekend I wanted to work on the tunnel area of the floorpan. This section fits the worst of the entire floorpan. The floorpan does not match up to the contour of the transmission crossmember. As a result, I'd need to work the metal a little to get it to fit.
I started today by screwing through the holes in the driver side of the floorpan to attach it to the rocker panel. I then tacked the top, center of the floorpan tunnel in place. I used a blow torch to heat up the metal on the floor and used a hammer and dolley to stretch the metal to fit the crossmember contour.
When I started, the floorpan was about 1/4" - 1/2" from the crossmember. To stretch it, I heated the metal, placed the metalwork side of the dolley on the floor, and then hit the backside with a hammer. The contour of the dolley matched up with the crossmember which formed the floor just right.
Sunday, June 26, 2011
Welding Abilities Improved Overnight!
I was reading a welding article last night in Hod Rod Magazine. One section of the article discussed setting the polarity of your welder based on the wire used. I immediately remember reading about the subject when I first purchased my welder and started welding without gas. A few seconds later, I realized I've been welding with the wrong polarity.
Today, I setup the welder in the electrode positive configuration which is used with solid wire and gas. I started welding on the floorboard with the new setting. I can't believe how much better the welder works. I get better penetration with much less to grind off.
I've almost finished welding the passenger side of the floorboard to the rocker panel. I need to stop for the day but now with the new settings have newfound motivation to finish the floor.
Today, I setup the welder in the electrode positive configuration which is used with solid wire and gas. I started welding on the floorboard with the new setting. I can't believe how much better the welder works. I get better penetration with much less to grind off.
I've almost finished welding the passenger side of the floorboard to the rocker panel. I need to stop for the day but now with the new settings have newfound motivation to finish the floor.
Leak Testing Cylinder Heads
I've not posted in a while. I've not done much on the Mustang as it is over 100 here in Texas. Even early in the morning and late at night it is fairly hot. I'm thinking I'll just take some time off work soon and get the floor done.
Anyway.... I purchased a set of C90E 351 cylinder heads in Dallas a couple of months back. I was in Dallas for the GoodGuys Spring Nationals and found the listing for the heads on CraigsList. The guy wanted $100 for the set.
I offerred $80 and he took me up on the offer. I'd really like a bigger cam in the Mustang which would require I switch to screwed in studs. I could pay for this work on my existing 289 heads and the money would just be lost. With the 351 heads, I can probably sell them later and recover a small portion of the money. Plus, the 351 heads flow better than the 289 heads.
Today, I filled set the heads down with the combustion chamber facing up. I then filled the combustion chamber with water to test the valve seats. All the intake valves are sealed up fine. Three of the exhaust seats leaked just a little.
I've posted about it on the SBFTech forum to get a few opinions. If a valve job is needed, I'll likely just sell the heads. If I can lap them and make it work or if it is not too big of a deal, I'll keep them for use later.
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Anyway.... I purchased a set of C90E 351 cylinder heads in Dallas a couple of months back. I was in Dallas for the GoodGuys Spring Nationals and found the listing for the heads on CraigsList. The guy wanted $100 for the set.
I offerred $80 and he took me up on the offer. I'd really like a bigger cam in the Mustang which would require I switch to screwed in studs. I could pay for this work on my existing 289 heads and the money would just be lost. With the 351 heads, I can probably sell them later and recover a small portion of the money. Plus, the 351 heads flow better than the 289 heads.
Today, I filled set the heads down with the combustion chamber facing up. I then filled the combustion chamber with water to test the valve seats. All the intake valves are sealed up fine. Three of the exhaust seats leaked just a little.
I've posted about it on the SBFTech forum to get a few opinions. If a valve job is needed, I'll likely just sell the heads. If I can lap them and make it work or if it is not too big of a deal, I'll keep them for use later.
Sunday, May 8, 2011
No More Tests Fitting The Floorpan
Since this weekend was Mother's Day weekend, I did not have a great deal of time to work on the Mustang. However, I was able to finish off the painting during the week so I could put the floorpan in the Mustang.
It fits well considering it is a reproduction piece. There are some areas which need to be reshaped slightly. There are also areas which might require me taking out or adding in some metal so it fits properly.
I'm thinking over the next month I should be able to get all that done. By that time, I should have the floor completely welded, welds ground smooth, and welded areas painted black like the rest of the floor.
It fits well considering it is a reproduction piece. There are some areas which need to be reshaped slightly. There are also areas which might require me taking out or adding in some metal so it fits properly.
I'm thinking over the next month I should be able to get all that done. By that time, I should have the floor completely welded, welds ground smooth, and welded areas painted black like the rest of the floor.
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