We have had an incredible amount of rain over the past couple of weeks. I don't drive the Mustang in the rain so I've just been waiting for decent weather . This week, our temperatures are in the upper 60's and there is no chance of rain. I decided I'd go ahead and drive the Mustang a few days this week.
While driving on Monday morning, I noticed a rattle sound coming from the underside of the car. The sound seems to be coming either the clutch linkage or the parking brake. The noise is most noticable in second or third gear when I'm below 3,000 RPM. After that point, I don't hear it. It could be argued that the exhaust is too loud but I should be able to hear it at low RPM in 3rd gear but I can't.
I stopped at the grocery store after work and the car would not start when it was time to leave. The engine was warm and from what I gather, this could be a result of the warm engine and high initial timing. The engine would turn over but give no indication of trying to start. After turning it over for a little while, the car started and I had no other troubles.
The shifter is starting to make a rattle noise again after rebuilding it not all that long ago. I'll need to pull back the carpet to check it out and find out why.
I've a slight hesitation when I'm in 3rd gear, let the RPM drop to 1,500, and then take off. I'm a little concerned about my air/fuel mixture. I'm going to work on selling a few old parts to buy an AutoMeter A/F gauge so I can do some additional tuning.
The speedometer is not correct. It seems to be a little on the low side. I'll have to test it by driving alongside my wife at a few different speeds to see how much it is off. I believe I have the correct gear.
I drove the car Monday through Wendesday of this week and managed to put about 130 miles on the car.
Showing posts with label Other. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Other. Show all posts
Monday, February 20, 2012
Sunday, February 5, 2012
Enjoying a Drive on Super Bowl Sunday
I decided to go for a drive this afternoon. The temperature was a cool 45 degrees but I enjoyed the drive.
I drove for about 25 miles today. I accelerated from 2,000 to 3,000 RPM about 15 times and let the engine brake the car to slow down. I've read this is a good approach to breaking in a new engine. I tried not to keep it at the same RPM for very long. I've read mixed thoughts on how to treat a motor during break-in. I put my foot in it about 2 or 3 times today and it feels fairly fast.
I noticed a slight hesitation when I accelerate rather quickly at about 2,000 RPM when in second or third gear. The hesitation is not bad at all in second gear but is a little worse in 3rd. I don't know if it matters that much as I don't plan on flooring it in 3rd gear when I'm only going 2,000 RPM. Shifting into 3rd from second when I'm driving fast places me outside of the trouble spot. This could be fuel or the timing, I'll worry more about this later.
The cam and lifters seem a little loud. I've heard the Comp Cams XE series are loud due to the aggressive ramp angles on the cam. I'm thinking of going to 3/4 turn rather than 1/2 turn past lash on the rockers to see if it quiets down a little.
I went up to near 80 MPH a time or two (to reach 3,000 RPM in 3rd gear) and the car seemed a little unsteady. It was as if a front tire was not perfectly balanced. I did rotate the back tires to the front while working on the car which might explain the change. I'm going to take a look at them all and make sure everything is tight.
I need to fill a hole in the firewall but a perfect sized rubber plug does not exist. I'll need to come up with something different to fill the hole. The hole is about 1" x 2" but you would be surprised the amount of air which rushes in while driving. It lets in a little bit of an engine smell which I'd like to fix before driving to work (professional, shirt/tie kind of place).
All in all, I'm pleased with how things are going on the car. I'm glad to be able to go out an jump in the car and go for a drive. I'd like to tweak some things while it is nice and cool (45 degrees today) and hopefully go to a car show or driving event this year. It is about time I start enjoying this thing rather than just working on it all the time.
I drove for about 25 miles today. I accelerated from 2,000 to 3,000 RPM about 15 times and let the engine brake the car to slow down. I've read this is a good approach to breaking in a new engine. I tried not to keep it at the same RPM for very long. I've read mixed thoughts on how to treat a motor during break-in. I put my foot in it about 2 or 3 times today and it feels fairly fast.
I noticed a slight hesitation when I accelerate rather quickly at about 2,000 RPM when in second or third gear. The hesitation is not bad at all in second gear but is a little worse in 3rd. I don't know if it matters that much as I don't plan on flooring it in 3rd gear when I'm only going 2,000 RPM. Shifting into 3rd from second when I'm driving fast places me outside of the trouble spot. This could be fuel or the timing, I'll worry more about this later.
The cam and lifters seem a little loud. I've heard the Comp Cams XE series are loud due to the aggressive ramp angles on the cam. I'm thinking of going to 3/4 turn rather than 1/2 turn past lash on the rockers to see if it quiets down a little.
I went up to near 80 MPH a time or two (to reach 3,000 RPM in 3rd gear) and the car seemed a little unsteady. It was as if a front tire was not perfectly balanced. I did rotate the back tires to the front while working on the car which might explain the change. I'm going to take a look at them all and make sure everything is tight.
I need to fill a hole in the firewall but a perfect sized rubber plug does not exist. I'll need to come up with something different to fill the hole. The hole is about 1" x 2" but you would be surprised the amount of air which rushes in while driving. It lets in a little bit of an engine smell which I'd like to fix before driving to work (professional, shirt/tie kind of place).
All in all, I'm pleased with how things are going on the car. I'm glad to be able to go out an jump in the car and go for a drive. I'd like to tweak some things while it is nice and cool (45 degrees today) and hopefully go to a car show or driving event this year. It is about time I start enjoying this thing rather than just working on it all the time.
Sunday, January 29, 2012
Vehicle Inspection and Driving Around
This weekend was the Pinewood Derby and Scouting for Food. I went with my son to Scouting for Food and then came back to get the car inspected before the Pinewood Derby.
Everything worked fine in my preliminary check so I headed off for the inspection. I've gone to the same place for years and they check the cars over pretty well. This time, however, they did not check much at all.
The guy drove the car into the engine bay, checked the wipers, turned on the headlights, and then looked under the hood. He never checked the horn, tail lights, parking lights turn signals, or much of anything for that matter. He just looked the car over briefly and then put on a new inspection sticker.
I was a little worried the car could overhead or the headers would turn orange. I checked half way to the inspection place and everything was fine. I drove the car from 2,000 - 3,000 RPM about 15-20 times. Once I reached 3,000 RPM, I let the engine brake the car back down. I read this is a decent way to break in an engine so I decided to do it a little on the frist drive.
I managed to put about 20 miles on the Mustang and even drove my son to the Pinewood Derby in it. The new radiator kept the temperature at 180 without any trouble. Everything went well so I'm feeling good.
Everything worked fine in my preliminary check so I headed off for the inspection. I've gone to the same place for years and they check the cars over pretty well. This time, however, they did not check much at all.
The guy drove the car into the engine bay, checked the wipers, turned on the headlights, and then looked under the hood. He never checked the horn, tail lights, parking lights turn signals, or much of anything for that matter. He just looked the car over briefly and then put on a new inspection sticker.
I was a little worried the car could overhead or the headers would turn orange. I checked half way to the inspection place and everything was fine. I drove the car from 2,000 - 3,000 RPM about 15-20 times. Once I reached 3,000 RPM, I let the engine brake the car back down. I read this is a decent way to break in an engine so I decided to do it a little on the frist drive.
I managed to put about 20 miles on the Mustang and even drove my son to the Pinewood Derby in it. The new radiator kept the temperature at 180 without any trouble. Everything went well so I'm feeling good.
Pardon the missing rocker molding, I've not drilled holes in the fender for the required brackets.
Sunday, December 18, 2011
Odds & Ends...
I really enjoy working on the Mustang in a clean garage. Everything seems much more organized and as if it is going better. I suppose it the obsessive compulsive side of me.
Anyway, I spent about half the weekend cleaning up the garage and the other half working on some random Mustang projects. I painted the oil pan, block plate, water pump, water pump pulley, dipstick, and coil bracket. Aside from the painting, I made a pin switch for the hood and mounted my alarm siren.
I ordered most of the remaining parts to complete the engine. I'll need to check the proper push rod length with an adjustable push rod. I'll then be able to order the proper size and some break in oil. However, before I can do any of these things, I need the engine back from the machine shop.
I called about the engine last Tuesday and was told it was build decked. I called again this Wednesday to check on things and was told the decking was done and it was "in line". After waiting for him the elaborate, he said it could be done sometime this coming week. I told him I had time off after Christmas and it would be great if it could be done next week.
Anyway, I spent about half the weekend cleaning up the garage and the other half working on some random Mustang projects. I painted the oil pan, block plate, water pump, water pump pulley, dipstick, and coil bracket. Aside from the painting, I made a pin switch for the hood and mounted my alarm siren.
I ordered most of the remaining parts to complete the engine. I'll need to check the proper push rod length with an adjustable push rod. I'll then be able to order the proper size and some break in oil. However, before I can do any of these things, I need the engine back from the machine shop.
I called about the engine last Tuesday and was told it was build decked. I called again this Wednesday to check on things and was told the decking was done and it was "in line". After waiting for him the elaborate, he said it could be done sometime this coming week. I told him I had time off after Christmas and it would be great if it could be done next week.
Saturday, November 26, 2011
Another Day of Random Projects
Today was another day of small, random projects.
I'm expecting a call stating the engine is ready any day now. The gaskets for assembling the motor arrived in the mail yesterday. I stripped the oil pan and put a coat of primer on it today. I'll want to seal up the motor with the oil pan soon after it arrives to avoid anything finding it's way into the motor.
I worked on the alternator brackets which had paint chips and bolt marks from constantly working to keep the belt from squealing. I sanded them smooth and repainted both of the brackets. I also worked on the bracket which is used to hold the speedometer cable to the driver frame rail and painted it as well.
I removed the underdash wiring so I could fix the damage I caused the other day. When I wire something, I use yellow for constant, red for ignition, and black for ground. Somehow, I managed to splice in the stock black/green wire with all the grounds from the gauges. I suppose I did not see the green strip and this wire is a powered wire which caused the issue. It did not cause any damage to speak of so it will be an easy fix.
When I stripped and painted the engine bay three years ago, I did not pull the engine. I stripped and repainted everything except where the motor mounted. With the engine out now, I'm working on those areas to finish off the job. I did the passenger side today and will hopefully do the driver side tomorrow.
The last thing I did was put the front valence, bumper, and grill molding back on the car. It looks strange with the black reproduction valence and other original blue painted panels. I don't care. I'll get to that later but for now I'd sure like to get it in running order.
This is a picture of how the Mustang sits today in my garage. I'm trickle charging the battery just to make sure it is charged up as it has not been used in a year. You can make out the oil pan sitting on the top and the transmission crossmember hanging up in the background. The radiator is on the ground by a little work bench. I'm sure ready to get all these parts back on the car and drive around!
I'm expecting a call stating the engine is ready any day now. The gaskets for assembling the motor arrived in the mail yesterday. I stripped the oil pan and put a coat of primer on it today. I'll want to seal up the motor with the oil pan soon after it arrives to avoid anything finding it's way into the motor.
I worked on the alternator brackets which had paint chips and bolt marks from constantly working to keep the belt from squealing. I sanded them smooth and repainted both of the brackets. I also worked on the bracket which is used to hold the speedometer cable to the driver frame rail and painted it as well.
I removed the underdash wiring so I could fix the damage I caused the other day. When I wire something, I use yellow for constant, red for ignition, and black for ground. Somehow, I managed to splice in the stock black/green wire with all the grounds from the gauges. I suppose I did not see the green strip and this wire is a powered wire which caused the issue. It did not cause any damage to speak of so it will be an easy fix.
When I stripped and painted the engine bay three years ago, I did not pull the engine. I stripped and repainted everything except where the motor mounted. With the engine out now, I'm working on those areas to finish off the job. I did the passenger side today and will hopefully do the driver side tomorrow.
The last thing I did was put the front valence, bumper, and grill molding back on the car. It looks strange with the black reproduction valence and other original blue painted panels. I don't care. I'll get to that later but for now I'd sure like to get it in running order.
This is a picture of how the Mustang sits today in my garage. I'm trickle charging the battery just to make sure it is charged up as it has not been used in a year. You can make out the oil pan sitting on the top and the transmission crossmember hanging up in the background. The radiator is on the ground by a little work bench. I'm sure ready to get all these parts back on the car and drive around!
Random Projects
After my last experience working on the Mustang, I decided to take a few days off. I also placed a few part orders and am at a standstill on some of the projects. However, I decided to take care of a few small things today.
I started by building a new rear speaker deck for the Mustang. The previous over installed 6 x 9 speakers by bending the openings in the rear deck larger. I straightened the metal and made a new rear deck so the speakers would fit without altering the metal.
I then installed my fuel line, cleaned out the trunk, put on a new set of license plates, installed the rear seats, seat belts, and window cranks. I repainted an alternator bracket, center link, and engine crossmember. Finally, I cleaned up and painted my water pump and it is ready for the motor when it is done.
I started by building a new rear speaker deck for the Mustang. The previous over installed 6 x 9 speakers by bending the openings in the rear deck larger. I straightened the metal and made a new rear deck so the speakers would fit without altering the metal.
I then installed my fuel line, cleaned out the trunk, put on a new set of license plates, installed the rear seats, seat belts, and window cranks. I repainted an alternator bracket, center link, and engine crossmember. Finally, I cleaned up and painted my water pump and it is ready for the motor when it is done.
Sunday, November 6, 2011
Timeline to Start-Up!
I'm really ready to get the Mustang back running again. I've about finished all the painting which is the final restoraton step. The best part is installing all of your new or newly restored parts and watching it all come together. I expect to finish around Christmas as there are so many weekend commitments and holidays coming up.
I took some time today to clean up the garage and the car a little today. I swept up some, cleaned up some parts, and then wiped down the outside of the car. Everything was so dirty and it is nice to start off the reinstallation of the parts with the clean work area.
I took out the brace which holds the pedals when I stripped the area under the dash. I cleaned it up today and coated it with Rust Encapsulator. I also removed the master cylinder which has rusted some since I installed it two years ago. I cleaned it up, sprayed it with Rust Encapsulator, and then used some VHT cast colored engine paint to get it looking nice again.
I've the following to-do list to finish this project up:
- Install Cowl Hats
- Install Dynamat
- Paint Dashboard
- Install Gas Line
- Install Pedal Brace
- Install Master Cylinder
- Install Dash Wiring
- Connect Electric Fan
- Install Pedal Assembly
- Install Clutch & Throttle Linkage
- Install Gauge Cluster
- Install Steering Column and Wheel
- Finish Interior Installation
- Repaint Throttle Linkage
- Touch Up Engine Bay Paint
- Install Engine Mounts
- Reinstall Engine
- Install Transmission
- Install Driveshaft
- Install Exhaust
- Install Parking Brake
There are many, many small steps between all of these which need to be addressed. I'm glad I don't expect to just get incredibly dirty or greasy for the remainder of this project. I've come in covered in dirt and pieces of gound metal so many times. It starts to get old after a while.
I took some time today to clean up the garage and the car a little today. I swept up some, cleaned up some parts, and then wiped down the outside of the car. Everything was so dirty and it is nice to start off the reinstallation of the parts with the clean work area.
I took out the brace which holds the pedals when I stripped the area under the dash. I cleaned it up today and coated it with Rust Encapsulator. I also removed the master cylinder which has rusted some since I installed it two years ago. I cleaned it up, sprayed it with Rust Encapsulator, and then used some VHT cast colored engine paint to get it looking nice again.
I've the following to-do list to finish this project up:
- Install Cowl Hats
- Install Dynamat
- Paint Dashboard
- Install Gas Line
- Install Pedal Brace
- Install Master Cylinder
- Install Dash Wiring
- Connect Electric Fan
- Install Pedal Assembly
- Install Clutch & Throttle Linkage
- Install Gauge Cluster
- Install Steering Column and Wheel
- Finish Interior Installation
- Repaint Throttle Linkage
- Touch Up Engine Bay Paint
- Install Engine Mounts
- Reinstall Engine
- Install Transmission
- Install Driveshaft
- Install Exhaust
- Install Parking Brake
There are many, many small steps between all of these which need to be addressed. I'm glad I don't expect to just get incredibly dirty or greasy for the remainder of this project. I've come in covered in dirt and pieces of gound metal so many times. It starts to get old after a while.
Saturday, September 24, 2011
Engine Removal
This morning, I started the various tasks needed to remove the engine. The task was easier as I've already removed the transmission, throttle assembly, exhaust, and z-bar setup.
I started by draining all the coolant from the radiator. I then removed the radiator, alternator, export brace, starter, valve covers, and hood. I purchased a plate which attached is place of the carburetor for lifting out the motor. I went ahead and removed the carburetor and installed the lift plate
I rented a 1500 lb engine crane from RedTail Equipment. I then purchased a 1000 lb engine stand from Harbor Freight. I covered the sides of the engine bay, front radiator support, and drapped a towel down the back side of the motor so it would not scrap the firewall. I then attached the crane, removed the engine mount bolts, and started pulling the motor.
The motor came out with relative easy. It is a little alarming at first to pull the motor and realize the entire weight is on the crane. Its one of those moments you can see the engine just crashing down into the car and damaging everything. Fortunately, that did not happen. I pulled the engine without a single scratch to the engine compartment.
Once the engine was mounted on the engine stand, I started cleaning up the garage. Coolant drained out onto the floor and created quite a mess. I'd rolled the Mustang almost out of the garage to get enought space for the crane. Once I cleaned the floor up, I rolled the Mustang back forward so the garage door could close again.
It is rather difficult to have an engine on a stand in your garage and not start thinking about putting in a new cam or other performance parts. I just need to focus on finishing up what I need to do on the floorpan. I'll save doing anything on the engine until the very end.
More on this later.... I found the following in the engine compartment and I'm trying to decide if it is a valve stem seal or something else.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Remaining Tasks on Current Project
At about this piont in each project, I take inventory of the tasks remaining. The end of the project starts to become visible but just does not arrive fast enough. Marking tasks off the list is motivating for me as it confirms the project is getting closer and closer to an end.
Anyway, here is the list of things I have left to complete:
- Tighten Leaf Spring Bolts
- Paint Transmission Support Brace
- Prep Rear Floor Seam & Torque Boxes (Strip, Prime, & Seam Seal)
- Prep Driver Torque Box (Strip, Prime, & Seam Seal)
- Finish Work & Paint Toe Board Area in Driver Fenderwell
- Prep Front Frame Rails (Strip, Prime, & Seam Seal)
- Weld Passenger Parking Brake Bracket
- Cut Hole in Floor for Parking Brake Cable
- Repaint Throttle Linkage
- Remove Engine
- Smooth Underside Toe Board Weld
- Undercoat Floorpan
- Install Engine Mounts
- Reinstall Engine
- Seam Seal Upper Side of Floorpan
- Strip Underside of Dash
- Repair Cowl Hats
- Strip and Paint Front of Dash
- Install Sound Deadening
- Install Firewall Pad
- Install Dash Wiring
- Connect Electric Fan
- Install Pedal Assembly
- Install Clutch & Throttle Linkage
- Install Gauge Cluster
- Install Steering Column and Wheel
- Install Transmission
- Install Driveshaft
- Install Exhaust
- Install Parking Brake
- Install Gas Line
- Install Interior
I've a busy September and October ahead of me with work and Boy Scout commitments for my son. However, I hope to be at the point of reinstalling items by the beginning of November.
Anyway, here is the list of things I have left to complete:
- Tighten Leaf Spring Bolts
- Paint Transmission Support Brace
- Prep Rear Floor Seam & Torque Boxes (Strip, Prime, & Seam Seal)
- Prep Driver Torque Box (Strip, Prime, & Seam Seal)
- Finish Work & Paint Toe Board Area in Driver Fenderwell
- Prep Front Frame Rails (Strip, Prime, & Seam Seal)
- Weld Passenger Parking Brake Bracket
- Cut Hole in Floor for Parking Brake Cable
- Repaint Throttle Linkage
- Remove Engine
- Smooth Underside Toe Board Weld
- Undercoat Floorpan
- Install Engine Mounts
- Reinstall Engine
- Seam Seal Upper Side of Floorpan
- Strip Underside of Dash
- Repair Cowl Hats
- Strip and Paint Front of Dash
- Install Sound Deadening
- Install Firewall Pad
- Install Dash Wiring
- Connect Electric Fan
- Install Pedal Assembly
- Install Clutch & Throttle Linkage
- Install Gauge Cluster
- Install Steering Column and Wheel
- Install Transmission
- Install Driveshaft
- Install Exhaust
- Install Parking Brake
- Install Gas Line
- Install Interior
I've a busy September and October ahead of me with work and Boy Scout commitments for my son. However, I hope to be at the point of reinstalling items by the beginning of November.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Parking Brake & Drive Shaft Complete
I finished coating the driveshaft with Eastood's Extreme Chassis Black this weekend. I then installed the Precision u-joints (#429 front / #430 rear). I'll end up placing the driveshaft in the attic most likely until I need to reinstall it in the vehicle.
I visited my family this weekend and used my dad's media blasting cabinet to clean up the parking brake assembly. I then painted it with some Krylon Satin Black paint. I need the cable for the assembly before I completely bolt the assembly together.
This is not a great deal of progress or anything from the list of things I need to do to install the floor. However, it is a few more tasks off the long term to do list.
I visited my family this weekend and used my dad's media blasting cabinet to clean up the parking brake assembly. I then painted it with some Krylon Satin Black paint. I need the cable for the assembly before I completely bolt the assembly together.
This is not a great deal of progress or anything from the list of things I need to do to install the floor. However, it is a few more tasks off the long term to do list.
Monday, August 16, 2010
Procrastination and Planning
I've been intimidated by the metalwork needed on the Mustang since the beginning. There are several areas with rust which need attention. I have a welder but don't have the needed gas tank. Instead of purchasing the tank and practicing, I continue to focus on small projects leaving this task until the end.
I'm going to force myself to focus on the bodywork needed. The basic metal structure of the car needs to be addressed. I'll start at the front and begin working my way to the rear. I'd like to be finished with this part of the project by next Summer. If I don't set a timeline, I'm sure I will drag it out forever.
I've started considering painting the car myself. If I pay someone to paint the car, it will cost a couple of thousand dollars. I'm sure I would be very critical of all the work done. I'd be concerned about small areas which would be missed. If I did it myself, I could ensure everything is painted as I would like. However, I don't know that I could handle a metallic paint.
I'm considering painting the car a matte black color. While black is not an easy color to paint because of how it shows issues with the bodgy panels, I like the sinister but understated, minimalistic appearance. I'll obviously need to research this a great deal more before I could handle this type of project. I'd like to do this soon so I can paint parts as I move towards the back of the car.
If I go with the matte black color, I plan to remove all the stock emblems. This would have a cleaner appearance and save a little money. I keep stating how certain things are going to save money. This is partly the budget part of my mind at work. However, I need to save money as I plan to do a little more with the performance of the car than originally planned. The money I save in these areas will allow for a 347 stroker engine, a very nice set of heads, and a 5 speed transmission.
I'm going to force myself to focus on the bodywork needed. The basic metal structure of the car needs to be addressed. I'll start at the front and begin working my way to the rear. I'd like to be finished with this part of the project by next Summer. If I don't set a timeline, I'm sure I will drag it out forever.
I've started considering painting the car myself. If I pay someone to paint the car, it will cost a couple of thousand dollars. I'm sure I would be very critical of all the work done. I'd be concerned about small areas which would be missed. If I did it myself, I could ensure everything is painted as I would like. However, I don't know that I could handle a metallic paint.
I'm considering painting the car a matte black color. While black is not an easy color to paint because of how it shows issues with the bodgy panels, I like the sinister but understated, minimalistic appearance. I'll obviously need to research this a great deal more before I could handle this type of project. I'd like to do this soon so I can paint parts as I move towards the back of the car.
If I go with the matte black color, I plan to remove all the stock emblems. This would have a cleaner appearance and save a little money. I keep stating how certain things are going to save money. This is partly the budget part of my mind at work. However, I need to save money as I plan to do a little more with the performance of the car than originally planned. The money I save in these areas will allow for a 347 stroker engine, a very nice set of heads, and a 5 speed transmission.
Monday, August 9, 2010
A Slow Return to the Mustang
I've had personal matters diminsh the importance of working on the Mustang for about five months now. During this time, I've thought very little about the Mustang. I lost all interest in driving the Mustang or doing anything for that matter. While this tough time is not over, my interested in the Mustang has slowly started to return.
The time away from working on the Mustang gives me a little bit of new perspective. I've been watching every dime I've spent on the Mustang since the beginning. I've treated working on the car as something like a job. The goal has been to maintain the budget in case I ever need to sell the car. I've since decided focus on this as a hobby as it is certainly not an investment.
The goal of the restoration remains the same. I want a very clean, well constructed vehicle which offers fun and driving comfort. I should enjoy the car so much I want to drive it every day. Overall, the appearance will be simple and understate. Care need s to be taken in constructing the car so it does not ride or sound as if it were thrown together with little money or attenton to detail.
I'm not sure where I want to start. When I left off on the project, I was ready to start on the floorpan replacement. I could still start at this point but need a gas tank for my welder. I'll also need a significant amount of practice. I plan to put some thought into my next steps and will update this blog again soon with my thoughts.
The time away from working on the Mustang gives me a little bit of new perspective. I've been watching every dime I've spent on the Mustang since the beginning. I've treated working on the car as something like a job. The goal has been to maintain the budget in case I ever need to sell the car. I've since decided focus on this as a hobby as it is certainly not an investment.
The goal of the restoration remains the same. I want a very clean, well constructed vehicle which offers fun and driving comfort. I should enjoy the car so much I want to drive it every day. Overall, the appearance will be simple and understate. Care need s to be taken in constructing the car so it does not ride or sound as if it were thrown together with little money or attenton to detail.
I'm not sure where I want to start. When I left off on the project, I was ready to start on the floorpan replacement. I could still start at this point but need a gas tank for my welder. I'll also need a significant amount of practice. I plan to put some thought into my next steps and will update this blog again soon with my thoughts.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Unexpected Help Arrives
I was working on my wife's car today and Danny stopped by with a friend. Danny helped me a little more than a year ago with some welding on the Mustang. He said he had a friend who was really interested in Ford's back when he came by and his friend (Gary) was with him today.
According to Danny, Gary is an old Ford tech. Danny wanted to show him the type job I did on the engine compartment. I showed them and then started up the Mustang.
I mentioned my troubles working on the carburetor. They both commented that the car was currently running a little rich. They said they could smell the unburnt fuel (which must be faint or I'm used to it) and they could hear it in the exhaust. I'm not sure how they can do that but I would like to learn.
The choke was not turning off again and they thought I just had the idle that high. I pushed the choke release and they commented that it idled well. Gary said the way to set the choke cap is to get the car all warmed up, loosen the choke cap screws and then turn it until you just see the choke flap move. He said to then tighten the screws and it should be perfect.
Gary also said my initial timing of 14 degrees was too high. He said to drop it to 8 or so and then try to set the idle mixture screws. He said I should have better luck then.
I now have a few projects for the Mustang. Coincidentally, I just finished work on my wife's car a few minutes ago. I'm not sure I'll get to these things this weekend but I'm glad to have a few new ideas to try.
According to Danny, Gary is an old Ford tech. Danny wanted to show him the type job I did on the engine compartment. I showed them and then started up the Mustang.
I mentioned my troubles working on the carburetor. They both commented that the car was currently running a little rich. They said they could smell the unburnt fuel (which must be faint or I'm used to it) and they could hear it in the exhaust. I'm not sure how they can do that but I would like to learn.
The choke was not turning off again and they thought I just had the idle that high. I pushed the choke release and they commented that it idled well. Gary said the way to set the choke cap is to get the car all warmed up, loosen the choke cap screws and then turn it until you just see the choke flap move. He said to then tighten the screws and it should be perfect.
Gary also said my initial timing of 14 degrees was too high. He said to drop it to 8 or so and then try to set the idle mixture screws. He said I should have better luck then.
I now have a few projects for the Mustang. Coincidentally, I just finished work on my wife's car a few minutes ago. I'm not sure I'll get to these things this weekend but I'm glad to have a few new ideas to try.
Friday, March 5, 2010
My Daily Driver
I needed to make some fairly lenghty repairs to my wife's car this past weekend. I knew I would not be able to finish over the weekend due to the need to order parts. I decided to move forward and they use the Mustang as my daily driver this week. While things have not going perfectly, they have gone very well.
I had to drive at night once this week. The headlights seem almost non-existent. They really should be replaced with somthing a little brighter. I've heard of people using a relay setup to ensure the lights receive a full 12v. If the headlights alone don't fix the problem, I may wire up some relays.
The choke is not set correctly and it is annoying. When the car is first started, it does not seem like the choke engages immediately. If I rev it a few times, it will catch and begin to idle at about 1500. If I walk back in side to finish getting ready, I can come out a few minutes later and it will be idling at about 2,00 RPM. If it has been idling for 15 minutes, it can still idle at 1,500 RPM which does not make sense as the choke should be off by then.
The other issue I noticed is the idle speed kept dropping yesterday. It would drop and the car would sputter as if were going to die. At one point it did die in the driveway. It then started doing it again this morning as I idled in the line to drop my son off as school. A few seconds later, it was back to idling at 1,500 RPM.
There is a rattle under the dash behind the radio and another behind the driver side A/C vent. I'll need to look around under the dash to see if I can find the cause.
I've had to leave theMustnag out overnight the past week. There is a little water in the passenger floorboard. I've completely sealed the cowl vent on that side so I'm not sure of the cause yet.
The car still rattles alot when going over bumps. I really need to go around the car and make sure every bolt I see is tight.
Finally, I learned on VMF this week that the 7&8 spark plug wires should not be run beside one another. It can cause a cross fire problem. I've done this since I purchased the car. I'll need to fix this when I have a moment.
Other than these items, everything went great. I do not consider these a big deal as they did not stop me from getting to work or anything. These are just a few kinks I found while driving it more than normal. I'll try to fix all these and then it should be better for the next time it needs to serve as my daily driver.
I had to drive at night once this week. The headlights seem almost non-existent. They really should be replaced with somthing a little brighter. I've heard of people using a relay setup to ensure the lights receive a full 12v. If the headlights alone don't fix the problem, I may wire up some relays.
The choke is not set correctly and it is annoying. When the car is first started, it does not seem like the choke engages immediately. If I rev it a few times, it will catch and begin to idle at about 1500. If I walk back in side to finish getting ready, I can come out a few minutes later and it will be idling at about 2,00 RPM. If it has been idling for 15 minutes, it can still idle at 1,500 RPM which does not make sense as the choke should be off by then.
The other issue I noticed is the idle speed kept dropping yesterday. It would drop and the car would sputter as if were going to die. At one point it did die in the driveway. It then started doing it again this morning as I idled in the line to drop my son off as school. A few seconds later, it was back to idling at 1,500 RPM.
There is a rattle under the dash behind the radio and another behind the driver side A/C vent. I'll need to look around under the dash to see if I can find the cause.
I've had to leave theMustnag out overnight the past week. There is a little water in the passenger floorboard. I've completely sealed the cowl vent on that side so I'm not sure of the cause yet.
The car still rattles alot when going over bumps. I really need to go around the car and make sure every bolt I see is tight.
Finally, I learned on VMF this week that the 7&8 spark plug wires should not be run beside one another. It can cause a cross fire problem. I've done this since I purchased the car. I'll need to fix this when I have a moment.
Other than these items, everything went great. I do not consider these a big deal as they did not stop me from getting to work or anything. These are just a few kinks I found while driving it more than normal. I'll try to fix all these and then it should be better for the next time it needs to serve as my daily driver.
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Exhaust Leak Repair & New Radio
I've mentioned previously the exhaust is welded solid from the header flanges to the tailpipes. In order to get the transmission out, I had to cut the passenger side exhaust pipe. I tried to put it back together with a patch piece and a few clamps from O'Reilly. This leaked horribly.
I received a set of band exhaust clamps from Summmit as a Christmas present. I installed on today. I had to put a little RTV along the clamp area so it would seal. Once tightened up, it looks nice and works great.
I hoped to have the new Alpine CD player installed by now but it has not arrived. I sent an email about the radio and the seller responded stated he had not mailed it yet! He did not realize I had paid. I ready to have it installed.
I switched back to the size 35 accelerator pump nozzle and the car runs much better. The timing curve changes paired with the new nozzle has fixed much of the hesitation.
I've not been able to get the car to die in the garage. I drove to the gas station today and it died on the way home. I was able to restart the car without any trouble. I drove it home and let it run for 10 minutes but it did not die again. I performed a baseline check on the coil voltage and it was at 11.2.
I received a set of band exhaust clamps from Summmit as a Christmas present. I installed on today. I had to put a little RTV along the clamp area so it would seal. Once tightened up, it looks nice and works great.
I hoped to have the new Alpine CD player installed by now but it has not arrived. I sent an email about the radio and the seller responded stated he had not mailed it yet! He did not realize I had paid. I ready to have it installed.
I switched back to the size 35 accelerator pump nozzle and the car runs much better. The timing curve changes paired with the new nozzle has fixed much of the hesitation.
I've not been able to get the car to die in the garage. I drove to the gas station today and it died on the way home. I was able to restart the car without any trouble. I drove it home and let it run for 10 minutes but it did not die again. I performed a baseline check on the coil voltage and it was at 11.2.
Friday, January 1, 2010
Lack of Progress Update
It is time for a progress update. I've not made a great deal of progress lately.
The ignition problem just went away. I'm using all the parts I was when it happened but it just was never reoccurred. I keep the spare coil, wires, and spark plugs in the trunk just in case.
I've not been able to restore the hood support. I would need to media blast the part. I've been helping my parents move and the media blaster is out of commission at the moment. I don't view this as critical so I'll work it in when time allows.
I received some nice exhaust couplers from Summit for Christmas. I asked for two in case I decide to cut the driver side pipe when replacing floorpans or restoring the rear undercarriage. I'll end up pulling the passenger side on in a couple days.
I ordered some exhaust wrap on Monday with the new gears. The exhaust rattle is caused by one of the retainers for the parking brake. When the parking brake is off, the retainer bounces around on the exhaust. I plan to wrap the exhaust to cushion it a little to stop the rattle.
I've fixed the rear window handles, reinstalled the intake, tightened the water pump bolts, sanded the pulleys to stop the alternator squeal, straightened the distributor, and painted the harmonic balancer.
I still want to paint the intake bolts and touch up the valve covers.
The carburetor hesitation is not fixed. I researched the pump cams and changed them out. I found it seems to run better with a less aggressive pump cam. Seems I was going the wrong way with the adjustment. I checked the spark plugs after driving around and the are not as dark but there is still a small hesitation. I'll likely just wait to fix it more as I'll just need to repeat the process when I put in the new gears.
I've about determined the rough ride is caused by the shocks. I don't think they can control the new springs. The springs just have their way with the shocks. I recall now being able to push them in with my hands. The car does not bounce up and down when I push on it but I still think this is the cause.
I've not fixed the shock tower caps or the spot on the firewall.
Does not seem like I've done much in the last month. Work is about to get much busier so I'm not sure I'll be able to do much for a while. Since I have the rear gear parts, I would really like to tackle the project and might try to fit it in shortly.
The ignition problem just went away. I'm using all the parts I was when it happened but it just was never reoccurred. I keep the spare coil, wires, and spark plugs in the trunk just in case.
I've not been able to restore the hood support. I would need to media blast the part. I've been helping my parents move and the media blaster is out of commission at the moment. I don't view this as critical so I'll work it in when time allows.
I received some nice exhaust couplers from Summit for Christmas. I asked for two in case I decide to cut the driver side pipe when replacing floorpans or restoring the rear undercarriage. I'll end up pulling the passenger side on in a couple days.
I ordered some exhaust wrap on Monday with the new gears. The exhaust rattle is caused by one of the retainers for the parking brake. When the parking brake is off, the retainer bounces around on the exhaust. I plan to wrap the exhaust to cushion it a little to stop the rattle.
I've fixed the rear window handles, reinstalled the intake, tightened the water pump bolts, sanded the pulleys to stop the alternator squeal, straightened the distributor, and painted the harmonic balancer.
I still want to paint the intake bolts and touch up the valve covers.
The carburetor hesitation is not fixed. I researched the pump cams and changed them out. I found it seems to run better with a less aggressive pump cam. Seems I was going the wrong way with the adjustment. I checked the spark plugs after driving around and the are not as dark but there is still a small hesitation. I'll likely just wait to fix it more as I'll just need to repeat the process when I put in the new gears.
I've about determined the rough ride is caused by the shocks. I don't think they can control the new springs. The springs just have their way with the shocks. I recall now being able to push them in with my hands. The car does not bounce up and down when I push on it but I still think this is the cause.
I've not fixed the shock tower caps or the spot on the firewall.
Does not seem like I've done much in the last month. Work is about to get much busier so I'm not sure I'll be able to do much for a while. Since I have the rear gear parts, I would really like to tackle the project and might try to fit it in shortly.
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Miller Regencye 250 Welder Connected
I received a Miller Regency 250 welder from my father earlier this year. I've been unable to use it as I needed a 220 outlet and some additional parts. I wired the 220 outlet on Monday of last week and picked up the wire feed box (S-22A) and the cabling this past weekend.
The wire feeder was not in very good condition. The 14 pin connecting plug was damaged such that it could not be connected. An extention was included for the 14 pin connector which was made out of standard electrical cord. I used this to create a 50' cable but it took at least an hour of reviewing wiring schematics for the unit.
There was an 1/8" of grease and grime in the bottom of the wire feed machine. I disassembled much of the box and cleaned up all of the components. I was able to test it out an everything seems to be working just fine. I hope to get better at welding over the next few months so I can replace the floorpans.
The wire feeder was not in very good condition. The 14 pin connecting plug was damaged such that it could not be connected. An extention was included for the 14 pin connector which was made out of standard electrical cord. I used this to create a 50' cable but it took at least an hour of reviewing wiring schematics for the unit.
There was an 1/8" of grease and grime in the bottom of the wire feed machine. I disassembled much of the box and cleaned up all of the components. I was able to test it out an everything seems to be working just fine. I hope to get better at welding over the next few months so I can replace the floorpans.
Monday, November 23, 2009
Deciding on the Next Project
I’m a little bothered by the problem with the Mustang dying randomly. It is difficult when you spend so much time restoring something like the transmission to have something else immediately stop you from driving the car. I expected to drive it around for a couple of weeks before starting the restoration of the rear undercarriage.
I already have the limited slip differential and installation kit. I’m really ready to put it on. However, I don’t look forward to stripping the entire rear undercarriage of the car. I really don’t like the job at all. The other problem is the carburetor is not tuned right, the intake leaks, and the car keeps dying. I’m not sure I want to keep moving on to another project when the last few don’t quite feel complete.
What I might do is just work to correct the issues with the car. If I get them handled quickly, I might go ahead and do the rear undercarriage. If not, I’ll just remove the rear axle, clean it up, and install the new differential and gears. This is not what I originally planned but I feel I should be doing what I enjoy with the car rather than slaving my way through the restoration when I’m not feeling up to it.
After thinking about it a little while, I was able to come up with the following list of items which need to be handled. It is a little longer than I expected. Many of them are small and could be handled quickly.
1. Fix Ignition Problem
2. Restore Core Support
3. Fix Exhaust Leak (leaking at new coupler)
4. Stop Brake Rattle
5. Fix Rear Window Handles
6. Paint Spot on Firewall (missed a small spot during trans tunnel stripping)
7. Restore Rear Axle & Install Gears
8. Check Water Pump (seemed like it could be leaking again)
9. Paint & Tighten Harmonic Balancer (damaged by water pump leak)
10. Fix Alternator Squeal (this has never gone away)
11. Reinstall Intake
12. Touch Up Valve Covers
13. Fix Distributor Angle (currently touches fuel line)
14. Fix Carburetor Hesitation
15. Set Choke Properly
16. Fix Shock Tower Caps
17. Work on Front Suspension (rides a little rough)
Tonight, I swapped back in the original coil. I ran the engine for 15 minutes and it did not die. This is good but it ran the same length of time a few nights ago without dying but then started up again. I decided I would let it cool a little and then take it for a drive. I drove a large circle around the neighborhood without any trouble.
I think I’ll leave the old coil in for now. I’ll start it a few times over the next few days to see if it will die. If it is the coil at least it is something simple. However, I will be upset that the coil is only a couple month old and is already not working.
I checked the water pump and I believe it has a very small leak. It is mostly visible as the fluid has taken the paint off the motor. It is very small but worth fixing when I take care of the intake. The radiator will already be drained so it will not add too much work.
I already have the limited slip differential and installation kit. I’m really ready to put it on. However, I don’t look forward to stripping the entire rear undercarriage of the car. I really don’t like the job at all. The other problem is the carburetor is not tuned right, the intake leaks, and the car keeps dying. I’m not sure I want to keep moving on to another project when the last few don’t quite feel complete.
What I might do is just work to correct the issues with the car. If I get them handled quickly, I might go ahead and do the rear undercarriage. If not, I’ll just remove the rear axle, clean it up, and install the new differential and gears. This is not what I originally planned but I feel I should be doing what I enjoy with the car rather than slaving my way through the restoration when I’m not feeling up to it.
After thinking about it a little while, I was able to come up with the following list of items which need to be handled. It is a little longer than I expected. Many of them are small and could be handled quickly.
1. Fix Ignition Problem
2. Restore Core Support
3. Fix Exhaust Leak (leaking at new coupler)
4. Stop Brake Rattle
5. Fix Rear Window Handles
6. Paint Spot on Firewall (missed a small spot during trans tunnel stripping)
7. Restore Rear Axle & Install Gears
8. Check Water Pump (seemed like it could be leaking again)
9. Paint & Tighten Harmonic Balancer (damaged by water pump leak)
10. Fix Alternator Squeal (this has never gone away)
11. Reinstall Intake
12. Touch Up Valve Covers
13. Fix Distributor Angle (currently touches fuel line)
14. Fix Carburetor Hesitation
15. Set Choke Properly
16. Fix Shock Tower Caps
17. Work on Front Suspension (rides a little rough)
Tonight, I swapped back in the original coil. I ran the engine for 15 minutes and it did not die. This is good but it ran the same length of time a few nights ago without dying but then started up again. I decided I would let it cool a little and then take it for a drive. I drove a large circle around the neighborhood without any trouble.
I think I’ll leave the old coil in for now. I’ll start it a few times over the next few days to see if it will die. If it is the coil at least it is something simple. However, I will be upset that the coil is only a couple month old and is already not working.
I checked the water pump and I believe it has a very small leak. It is mostly visible as the fluid has taken the paint off the motor. It is very small but worth fixing when I take care of the intake. The radiator will already be drained so it will not add too much work.
Wednesday, October 14, 2009
Preparing for the Next Project
I've begun to think of what moderate size project I could handle over the winter. I would love to replace the floorpans but I've not learned how to weld. I'm considering fixing the transmission leak and then restoring the rear undercarriage. I can then do the middle undercarriage (floorpans) in the middle or late next year.
I've decided to start selling off a few random Mustang parts which I don't need. This will help me save up a little additional money. I'll need plenty if I decided to restore the rear undercarriage as I will want new gears and a TrueTrac differential.
I've started by selling the Autolite 2100 carburetor which came on my Mustang. It is not original and had a production date of 1971 stamped on the bottom. The casting number was 2PL which I've not been able to decode completely. However, I believe the carburetor was original to a 351 Mustang. I was surprised to find the carburetor sold for $86.00.
I've decided to start selling off a few random Mustang parts which I don't need. This will help me save up a little additional money. I'll need plenty if I decided to restore the rear undercarriage as I will want new gears and a TrueTrac differential.
I've started by selling the Autolite 2100 carburetor which came on my Mustang. It is not original and had a production date of 1971 stamped on the bottom. The casting number was 2PL which I've not been able to decode completely. However, I believe the carburetor was original to a 351 Mustang. I was surprised to find the carburetor sold for $86.00.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
Taking a Little Break
I've not given up on correcting the driveability issues with the new carb. I'm just taking a little break. I noticed a small oil leak at the back and front of the intake and really don't want to remove and reinstall it right now. Since it has been raining a lot the past few weeks, I've just given myself some space with the project.
I'll get back on it soon after a little time away.
I'll get back on it soon after a little time away.
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