I was thinking of a good way to fix the carburetor troubles and decided to pull the plugs to see how they look. I started with the number 1 cylinder and the end of the plug was black. This indicates either the engine is running rich or the plug is too cold.
I pulled each of the other spark plugs and noticed the #1, #4, and #7 plugs are the worst. These are all fed by the same side of the carburetor. Since I’ve done more idling than driving lately (to test the coil), this is likely related to the idle mixture screws.
These screws should be set the same distance out on each side and should be set to generate the highest vacuum. Unfortunately, my vacuum does not change when I turn the mixture screws. However, the screws are set the same distance out so you would expect the same plug appearance on both sides.
I checked the screws again and they are about the same distance out. The passenger side, which feeds the plugs in question, was possibly a little further out. I turned it in by 1/3 turn just to get closer to the right spot until I can fix the carburetor tune.
Monday, November 30, 2009
Sunday, November 29, 2009
Rear Quarter Window Cranks
I started work on the rear window cranks today. I restored the rear quarters about 1.5 years ago. The driver side rear window crank would never fit on the regulator shaft. It fit on about 1/8” which was not enough to use the retaining screw. The passenger side fit a little better and could be installed but fell off a few weeks later. They have both been off the car for at least a year now. I’ve wanted to fix it but there have always been more important projects to address.
I started by using a rubber mallet to tap around the regulator shaft on the rear quarter panel. This reshaped them enough that the regulator shaft stuck out enough to attach the cranks. This worked very well and did not distort the panels at all.
I cut the end off of one of my old, original window cranks. Since the allen screw is under the arm of the crank, this would allow me better access to the hole. I then drilled out the threads with a slightly larger drill bit. I then used the old crank as a template to drill holes in the regulator shaft. This allowed me to then install the new crank and tighten the retaining screw into the small divot. This should keep the window cranks from falling off the shafts.
Later in the afternoon, we were running errands today and drove by JoAnne Fabric. I went it and picked up some dense ½ foam. I removed the arm rest from the bench seat, removed the upholstery, covered the stock padding with the foam on four sides, and then reinstalled the upholstery. The arm rest looks a little better now. You could previously tell the foam inside was deteriorating. It was a five dollar fix and I think it was work the money and effort.
I started by using a rubber mallet to tap around the regulator shaft on the rear quarter panel. This reshaped them enough that the regulator shaft stuck out enough to attach the cranks. This worked very well and did not distort the panels at all.
I cut the end off of one of my old, original window cranks. Since the allen screw is under the arm of the crank, this would allow me better access to the hole. I then drilled out the threads with a slightly larger drill bit. I then used the old crank as a template to drill holes in the regulator shaft. This allowed me to then install the new crank and tighten the retaining screw into the small divot. This should keep the window cranks from falling off the shafts.
Later in the afternoon, we were running errands today and drove by JoAnne Fabric. I went it and picked up some dense ½ foam. I removed the arm rest from the bench seat, removed the upholstery, covered the stock padding with the foam on four sides, and then reinstalled the upholstery. The arm rest looks a little better now. You could previously tell the foam inside was deteriorating. It was a five dollar fix and I think it was work the money and effort.
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Troubleshooting the Engine Dying
A couple of days ago, I let the Mustang run twice for 15 minutes each time. The car did not die as it did previously. I left the old coil in to test it more after Thanksgiving.
I let the Mustang run for 15 minutes again today and the car did not die. I drove around the block a little and then swapped back in the Petronix coil. I started the car and let it run for 15 minutes and it did not die. I’m a little stumped by the whole thing. I’m not sure what the cause is as it does not seem to happen often now.
I tried to rotate the clamp I used on the new exhaust pipe coupler to stop the exhaust leak. This stopped the leak at the old location but now it leaks at a different spot. I’ll either need to find a way to slide the exhaust further forward, or buy a different type of clamp to hold the pieces together better.
I let the Mustang run for 15 minutes again today and the car did not die. I drove around the block a little and then swapped back in the Petronix coil. I started the car and let it run for 15 minutes and it did not die. I’m a little stumped by the whole thing. I’m not sure what the cause is as it does not seem to happen often now.
I tried to rotate the clamp I used on the new exhaust pipe coupler to stop the exhaust leak. This stopped the leak at the old location but now it leaks at a different spot. I’ll either need to find a way to slide the exhaust further forward, or buy a different type of clamp to hold the pieces together better.
Monday, November 23, 2009
Deciding on the Next Project
I’m a little bothered by the problem with the Mustang dying randomly. It is difficult when you spend so much time restoring something like the transmission to have something else immediately stop you from driving the car. I expected to drive it around for a couple of weeks before starting the restoration of the rear undercarriage.
I already have the limited slip differential and installation kit. I’m really ready to put it on. However, I don’t look forward to stripping the entire rear undercarriage of the car. I really don’t like the job at all. The other problem is the carburetor is not tuned right, the intake leaks, and the car keeps dying. I’m not sure I want to keep moving on to another project when the last few don’t quite feel complete.
What I might do is just work to correct the issues with the car. If I get them handled quickly, I might go ahead and do the rear undercarriage. If not, I’ll just remove the rear axle, clean it up, and install the new differential and gears. This is not what I originally planned but I feel I should be doing what I enjoy with the car rather than slaving my way through the restoration when I’m not feeling up to it.
After thinking about it a little while, I was able to come up with the following list of items which need to be handled. It is a little longer than I expected. Many of them are small and could be handled quickly.
1. Fix Ignition Problem
2. Restore Core Support
3. Fix Exhaust Leak (leaking at new coupler)
4. Stop Brake Rattle
5. Fix Rear Window Handles
6. Paint Spot on Firewall (missed a small spot during trans tunnel stripping)
7. Restore Rear Axle & Install Gears
8. Check Water Pump (seemed like it could be leaking again)
9. Paint & Tighten Harmonic Balancer (damaged by water pump leak)
10. Fix Alternator Squeal (this has never gone away)
11. Reinstall Intake
12. Touch Up Valve Covers
13. Fix Distributor Angle (currently touches fuel line)
14. Fix Carburetor Hesitation
15. Set Choke Properly
16. Fix Shock Tower Caps
17. Work on Front Suspension (rides a little rough)
Tonight, I swapped back in the original coil. I ran the engine for 15 minutes and it did not die. This is good but it ran the same length of time a few nights ago without dying but then started up again. I decided I would let it cool a little and then take it for a drive. I drove a large circle around the neighborhood without any trouble.
I think I’ll leave the old coil in for now. I’ll start it a few times over the next few days to see if it will die. If it is the coil at least it is something simple. However, I will be upset that the coil is only a couple month old and is already not working.
I checked the water pump and I believe it has a very small leak. It is mostly visible as the fluid has taken the paint off the motor. It is very small but worth fixing when I take care of the intake. The radiator will already be drained so it will not add too much work.
I already have the limited slip differential and installation kit. I’m really ready to put it on. However, I don’t look forward to stripping the entire rear undercarriage of the car. I really don’t like the job at all. The other problem is the carburetor is not tuned right, the intake leaks, and the car keeps dying. I’m not sure I want to keep moving on to another project when the last few don’t quite feel complete.
What I might do is just work to correct the issues with the car. If I get them handled quickly, I might go ahead and do the rear undercarriage. If not, I’ll just remove the rear axle, clean it up, and install the new differential and gears. This is not what I originally planned but I feel I should be doing what I enjoy with the car rather than slaving my way through the restoration when I’m not feeling up to it.
After thinking about it a little while, I was able to come up with the following list of items which need to be handled. It is a little longer than I expected. Many of them are small and could be handled quickly.
1. Fix Ignition Problem
2. Restore Core Support
3. Fix Exhaust Leak (leaking at new coupler)
4. Stop Brake Rattle
5. Fix Rear Window Handles
6. Paint Spot on Firewall (missed a small spot during trans tunnel stripping)
7. Restore Rear Axle & Install Gears
8. Check Water Pump (seemed like it could be leaking again)
9. Paint & Tighten Harmonic Balancer (damaged by water pump leak)
10. Fix Alternator Squeal (this has never gone away)
11. Reinstall Intake
12. Touch Up Valve Covers
13. Fix Distributor Angle (currently touches fuel line)
14. Fix Carburetor Hesitation
15. Set Choke Properly
16. Fix Shock Tower Caps
17. Work on Front Suspension (rides a little rough)
Tonight, I swapped back in the original coil. I ran the engine for 15 minutes and it did not die. This is good but it ran the same length of time a few nights ago without dying but then started up again. I decided I would let it cool a little and then take it for a drive. I drove a large circle around the neighborhood without any trouble.
I think I’ll leave the old coil in for now. I’ll start it a few times over the next few days to see if it will die. If it is the coil at least it is something simple. However, I will be upset that the coil is only a couple month old and is already not working.
I checked the water pump and I believe it has a very small leak. It is mostly visible as the fluid has taken the paint off the motor. It is very small but worth fixing when I take care of the intake. The radiator will already be drained so it will not add too much work.
Sunday, November 22, 2009
Engine Dying Randomly
Last night I decided to drive the Mustang to Wal-Mart. The car again died as I was backing down the driveway. It did not want to start until about the eighth attempt. Since it happened earlier and then went away, I did not think it would harm driving the car to Wal-Mart but I was wrong.
I made it to the end of the street and it died again. I planned to turn around but the car died three more times before I could get around the block and back home. The problem is really strange as the car just dies as if someone has turned the key off. It does it when idling and when driving down the road at 2000 RPM.
I thought I might be crazy and it could just be really low on gas. I filled up this morning and drove around some and had no trouble. However, this afternoon, I decided to drive to O’Reilly in the Mustang. It again died twice before I could get around the block and back home.
I’m wondering if it is something electrical like the ignition switch. I tried to test it in the garage tonight. I started the car and it died in about 3 minutes. All the connections on the coil and solenoid are correct. Everything which should have power does have power. There is plenty of fuel in the see-through fuel filter.
I started it again and it died again. I repeated this one last time and it died a third time. Each time, the car would start back up immediately without the use of the gas pedal. I posted on the StangFix forum about it. They agree it is something electrical and suggest I start by going back to the stock coil. I’ll likely try this in the next few days.
I made it to the end of the street and it died again. I planned to turn around but the car died three more times before I could get around the block and back home. The problem is really strange as the car just dies as if someone has turned the key off. It does it when idling and when driving down the road at 2000 RPM.
I thought I might be crazy and it could just be really low on gas. I filled up this morning and drove around some and had no trouble. However, this afternoon, I decided to drive to O’Reilly in the Mustang. It again died twice before I could get around the block and back home.
I’m wondering if it is something electrical like the ignition switch. I tried to test it in the garage tonight. I started the car and it died in about 3 minutes. All the connections on the coil and solenoid are correct. Everything which should have power does have power. There is plenty of fuel in the see-through fuel filter.
I started it again and it died again. I repeated this one last time and it died a third time. Each time, the car would start back up immediately without the use of the gas pedal. I posted on the StangFix forum about it. They agree it is something electrical and suggest I start by going back to the stock coil. I’ll likely try this in the next few days.
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