HRPT Prep 3 - Hydraulic Clutch (Part 1)

Today, I began the installation of a Modern Driveline (MDL) hydraulic clutch system.  The Light Foot (LF) kit (# MD910-012C) I purchased, includes a Willwood 260-6088 clutch master cylinder, billet fluid reservoir, unique adapter for the stock pedal, and all the hardware.  The second part I purchased from them is a Tilton 6000 series slip-on, throw-out bearing setup for my T-5 which also works on TKO, TKX, and Toploader transmission.  I didn't realize it at the time, but neither kit came with a hydraulic line to connect the master cylinder to the Tilton throw-out bearing so I'll need to get one of those.

The bracket which mounts to the inside firewall and connects to the clutch pedal took a little time.  Most of the time was spent test fitting it to the firewall, test assembling, and making sure that the way I planned to install it would not result in any binding of the linkage.  After quite some time, I realized there was simply no way to install it so that the master cylinder was perfectly straight up and down.  Once my OCD allowed me to look past that, I drilled the holes to mount it and moved on with the install.

It didn't take long to realize that the clutch master cylinder contacted the brake lines I made just a few months ago.  In order to get it to fit properly, I had to remove the brake lines and bend a new set that cleared the clutch master body and ports.  I made the first line without any trouble on the first attempt.  However, the second brake line was a very frustrating effort that resulted in the following pile of incorrect brake lines.  It took several attempts to get the second line correct.  There were many lines bent wrong, one just a 1/4" too short, and two instances where I fared lines without a fitting.  In the end, these lines are far better looking than the set I quickly put together last time.  

Since installing the new WIllwood brake master cylinder, the system has seemed just a bit softer than before.  I decided to take this opportunity to bleed the brake master cylinder again since I had the lines off.  I ran a few lines from the port into the top reservoir, setup my camera to video the master, and then slowly pumped the brake pedal.  I went through a total of 50 depressions of the pedal since I couldn't see anything and didn't want to do it again.  I later checked the video and saw few bubbles aside from the air in the lines I looped over.  I guess I'll know for sure once I beed the whole system again and try it out.

I was stopped out for the rest of the day because I don't have a second set of hands to install the clutch master and I didn't want to crawl under the car to remove the transmission this late.  I'll get the rest done here in the next few days.

HRPT Prep 2 - Front Ball Joint Replacement

Almost three years ago now, I replaced the upper ball joint on the driver's side of the Mustang.  The ball joint was not replaced because it was worn out but because of a cut to the rubber boot which caused it to lose grease.  Since it was not worn out, I only replaced the one side.  The was the right decision at the time but it has come back to haunt me.

I carefully removed the coil spring which is the worst part of the entire project.  With the upper control arm out, I checked the ball joint to confirm it was bad.  It moves quite loosely but does not have any slop in the joint itself.  However, as I moved it around, I noticed it wasn't the ball joint itself but the rivets which hold the ball joint to the arm were lose.  I'm glad I noticed before something broke and caused a large problem.

The proper replacement ball joint is a Moog K8142 which is a bolt in replacement for the original style which was riveted to the upper control arm.  Everything came in good condition and after grinding the old ball joint rivets, cleaning the control arms, and a couple bolts and it was installed.  The instructions state the three mounting bolts should be torqued to 14-19ft/lbs. but I went to 20 ft/lbs. with red High Strength Loc-Tite.

Reassembly of the suspension was fairly straightforward.  I greased the upper control arm itself and the ball joint before installing it.  I torqued the upper control arm to shock tower nuts to 90 ft/lbs. and used red Hight Strength Loc-Tite.  I then torqued the upper ball joint to 70 ft/lbs. and locked it in place with the supplied cotter pin.

I'll be going over the entire front suspension to make sure everything is torqued properly and to grease everything before long.  However, I think I'll move on to the hydraulic clutch installation since I have a few days off and it is a rather large project.

HRPT Prep 1 - Rear Axle & Suspension

I'm going to start my preparation for the Hot Rod Power Tour with the rear suspension.  I don't expect to find any real issues but I want to review everything.  HRPT is a long trip and I don't want to have any problems.  Over the course of the weekend, I took care of the following.

I pulled the rear drums to look over the brake system.  Everything is in great condition.  Plenty of life left on the brake shoes, nothing concerning about the drum surface, wheel cylinder are in good condition without any leaks, and the rubber brake lines are flexible and without any cracks.  I put a light coat of VHT SP997 Cast Iron high temp paint which is the same paint I originally used on them years ago.

The stock rear axle vent tube leaves quite a bit to be desired.  There is essentially a nipple that screws into one of the axle tubes, connects to rubber hose, that is inserted into the frame rail.  The threads for the vent nipple are 7/16"-20 and I found a Strange Engineering vent (STR-H1112B) which is more compact and doesn't have a rubber hose running near the exhaust.  I installed it using the original lock washer that was used with the vent nipple.

I confirmed the torque on several of the rear suspension fasteners.  I used the torque specifications from the 1967 Mustang Shop Manual.  The wheels are torqued to 80 ft/lbs., U-bolts are torqued to 50 ft/lbs., front leaf spring bolt is torqued to 45 ft/lbs., and the shackles are torqued to 20 ft/lbs.  I didn't bother with the axle retainers or the center section as they are leak free and no doubt fine.

While I did not have a chance yet, I want to drive the car around to heat up the gear oil in the rear axle and pump it all out. I purchased Valvoline 80w90 gear oil (VV831 on right below) which meets GL-5 specs and has no friction modifiers.  This is exactly what is recommended by Detroit for the Tru-Trac that is installed in the rear.  This isn't 100% necessary but I have not changed it since installing the Tru-Trac or the rear gears so it is at least worth the peace of mind.

To finish off the weekend, I cleaned up the wheels and tires.  I then filled them up with 32 lbs. of air pressure.  

The next project will be to replace the upper ball joint on the passenger side front suspension.  I noticed some play in the ball joint a couple of weeks ago and the new parts to do the job just arrived from Summit on Friday evening.

I have 14 weeks until Power Tour.

What if I went on the Hot Rod Power Tour?

My son and I have been talking about going on the Hot Rod Power Tour this year.  He decided tonight that he was interested in going.  While I've driven the car quite a distance before, I've never driven the amount that Power Tour would require.  I'll need to get serious fast about addressing any areas of concern fast.  This post be my starting list of things I'd like to address in the next three months:

1) Hydraulic Clutch Upgrade - When I installed the power steering, I built a new Z-bar to clear the Borgeson steering box.  Unfortunately, something is off.  After quite a bit of adjustment, the clutch only releases when the pedal is almost to the floor.  I could keep working on it but I don't see it as the best long term solution.  I'm going to upgrade to a Tilton hydraulic release bearing and Wilwood clutch master cylinder setup from Modern Driveline.  

2) LED Taillight & Turn Signals - I recently replaced the rear taillight bulbs with LEDs.  The change is incredible.  I'm going to do the front turn signals as well so that when I brake or am turning it is abundantly clear.  

3) Differential Fluid - As a safety measure, I plan to drive the Mustang around and pump out the fluid and then put in all new fluid.  I'm sure there is some debris in from the break in process and it would be good to be 100% sure if it full with good fluid.

4) Parking Brake - The parking brake is still disconnected under the car from the power steering project.  I'll need to get everything connected and adjusted so that it begins to work again.  Never know when you might need it.

3) Exhaust Leaks - I need to replace the header and collector gaskets.  I believe they leak since I broke the seal on them when I installed the power steering.

4) Windshield Leak - The windshield leaked horribly during a rain storm when Aaron and I went to Tulsa a few years ago.  I have a new seal, 3M sealant, and suction cups to help pull the windshield.  I've just not done it as I fear I'll find rust and the project will snowball.

5) Coolant Leaks - I have coolant leaks in a few areas including the thermostat housing and timing cover.  I need to get them fixed and should time this to match any other cooling upgrades.

6) Headlight Relays - I've had the headlights shut off on a few occasions.  This only occurred after switching to a headlight relay system that will provide the headlights will full battery power.  The headlight switch only triggers the relays as is known to be a weak link but I'd be surprised if it were the cause but I might replace it anyway.

8) Oil Leaks & Dented Oil Pan - I'm leaking a little oil along the back of the engine.  When I pull the transmission, I plan to look around at the back of the block.  Hopefully it isn't the rear main seal.  While I'm at it, I need to work on a dent I put in the bottom of the oil pain. I don't want any leaks so that if we can drive on a track I can participate.  

10) Leak from A/C Dryer - I noticed this week a small wet spot under the A/C dryer.  I'll need to tighten that fitting and then make sure the A/C system is fully charged.  

12) Front Passenger Ball Joint - Last weekend, I jacked the front of the car up to cycle the power steering without the wheels on the ground.  While it was up, I pulled on the wheel to see if all was well with the wheel bearings.  I noticed the passenger side upper ball joint has some play so it needs to be replaced.

14) Cooling System - I'll often be stopped in traffic and need to ensure the cooling system works perfectly.

16) Bleed Brakes & Master Cylinder - I'll do this after the hydraulic clutch install but want to bleed the master cylinder and the system again.  I don't feel that the pedal is as firm as it should be.  Might as well do it now rather than wonder the whole week of Power Tour.

17) EFI - This is last on the list but I'm planning to install a Holley Terminator X EFI system.  They are backordered so I don't know if it will be installed before Power Tour but I'm going to plan on it.  

Ideally, all of the above would be done by April 15th.  That is when I expect the Holley system to ship.  I'll then have that point until the trip to get it installed and do some additional testing.

Spare Tire Bracket & Trunk Layout

I'd like to take a few road trips or go on Power Tour in the Mustang.  I'm not sure if I'll make Power Tour this year but I started thinking of what I would take.  This led to buying a few Dewalt plastic totes to go in the back of the car with supplies.  I also wanted a toolbox but space was really tight due to the spare tire bracket.

The spare tire bracket in my Mustang looks different than the others that I've seen.  It protrudes more into the area above the gas tank.  The parts which extend over the gas tank look like gussets but they don't attach at the bottom.  I decided to trim it back a little this morning so that I'd have some additional storage space.  

Before trimming it, I drew out the shape of the metal in the event I want to recreate it later.  It was fairly easy to cut off as it was pretty mild 13 gauge steel (.0895 on micrometer).  With it trimmed, I used a grinder and even a file to get it to look super smooth.  I then coated it with some Rustoleum satin black paint.  I tried to feather in the paint so it does not stand out much and it turned out good.

I gained over an inch which seems rather pointless at first.  However, that inch now allows me to put in a Craftsman tool box between the two Dewalt storage trays.  I could stack things on top of it all if I needed as well.  The layout looks good to me but I don't have everything together that I'd expect to take.

I've struggled with bringing a spare but have decided against it.  I think I'm far more likely to have another problem than a flat tire.  A spare would take huge amounts of space in the truck.  Additionally, it is really hard to find one which would work over the front brakes and be exactly the same size as the rear tires so the TrueTrac would not be harmed by using it.