BFGoodrich Sport Comp 2 Tires

I've looked at several different tire designs in the last couple of weeks looking for something which would be best for the Mustang.  I started focusing on tires which had the most grip which led to a few track oriented variations.  However, the tread designs just looked too modern for a classic muscle car.  In the end, I decided to go with BFGoodrich Sport Comp 2 tires as they provided good performance, a good appearance, and a reasonable price.

I took a unique approach with buying tires for the Mustang.  I started by buying just the front to tires and having them mounted.  I'd read so much conflicting information about how tires fit when mounted I did not feel I could trust anything I read.  I knew I wanted 225 45 tires for the front so buying these first would give me a guide for how other sizes would fit the rear of the Mustang.

I mounted these on the back and took some measurements of how much space I had on each side of the tire.  I estimated a 245 would fit easily but a might be able to go with a 255.  To be on the safe side, I ordered and had a set of 245 45 tires installed on the rear wheels two weeks later.

With all the tires mounted, I just had to pick up a few lug nuts this morning and I was ready to install the rims.  With them installed, I drove around for a while and then took this picture at the end of my driveway.  Its not the best picture but it shows how they look with the current stance.

As I drove around, I found the car is much more stable at highway speeds than before.  I thought the shake before was due to the poor aerodynamics of the vehicle.  Now it is as smooth as any of the other vehicles I've driven.  I hoped the back tires would hold the power of the engine but it is fairly easy to spin the tires when accelerating. 

The car still needs an alignment since I performed the Arning drop.  I've not done it yet but with the tires I really need to.  I've hesitated as the last time I had someone perform an alignment, they used vice grips on the adjustment sleeves and tore them up badly.  I'll need to purchase some new adjustment sleeves and then locate a good place so I can really test out the cornering ability with these new tires. 

New Billett Specialties Wheels

Over the last few months, I've continued to search for a new set of wheels for the Mustang.  I initially started looking for late model rims which I could use with some spacers.  However, I decided against that direction as I don't want to cut corners and just end up wishing I'd done something different later.  This led me to an exhaustive search of the various aftermarket wheels available.

Many of the inexpensive wheels available through Summit or similar retailers just look cheap to me.  As I search through what is available, I don't find anything I like until I'm looking at wheels which are well over $200 a piece.  I did not expect to spend this much on wheels so I started saving and continued to look.

This past week, I settled on a set of wheels and had saved enough to purchase them.  The wheels I decided on where Billet Specialties Rival G's.  I decided to go with 17" x 8" wheels all the way around. The wheels arrived today and I'm rather excited about how they look!

I wanted to find a way to place 275 tires on the back but without custom ordering these wheels it would not be possible due to the backspacing.  I suppose the wheels are made in a one size fits all approach so as to limit the number of wheels each company produces.  There were a few which were 9" wide but I did not like the look of any of them.  I decided I'd go with these and then just determine what tire size would fit when they arrived.    

Now that I have the wheels, I'm going to mount them up without wheels and measure for the best tire size for front and back.  I'll then need to save up some money so I can buy those.

Transmission Parts & Needing New Wheels

I've not vanished.... just been busy.

I purchased an adapter plate to install the T5 transmission to my original bellhousing.  My original plan was to use the bellhousing which came along with the T5 transmission.  As I calculated the pricing, I found it was going to cost roughly the same for the block plate ($29.99), Fulcrum Mount ($52.99), and T5 bellhousing boot ($28.80) as it would to just buy the adapter plate.  The adapter plate is shown below.

I also purchased a NOS 3 speed shift lever for a 1967 Mustang.  It is identical to the one currently in the Mustang except the chrome finish is much better.  T5 shift levers place the shifter too far forward.  My plan is to modify this 3 speed shifter to attach to the T5.  This will provide me with the same shifter location as I have now and a stock like appearance but with a short throw due to the shifter itself.

I've wanted to get new wheels for the Mustang for a while now so I can run a wider rear tire and tires with a lower aspect ratio for better cornering.  I decided two weeks ago I would list my current GT wheels I've had for five years on Craigslist.  I expected it would take a while for them to sell since I did not want to compromise on the price.... I was wrong.

Someone showed up to buy them today for $450.  This is the same price I paid for the wheels and tires five years ago.  I'm glad I was able to get the price I wanted for the wheels.  However, the Mustang is now on jack stands as I figure out what I'm going to purchase.

Transmission Rebuild Complete

I spent some time two weekends ago and again this weekend completing the rebuild of my T-5 transmission.

I finally gave up on C J Pony parts sending me the items I ordered.  I called and cancelled my order for the tail shaft bushing.  The second part of my order was a black, six-tooth speedometer gear.  They had this part in stock but were waiting for the bushing to send it out.  Once I cancelled the bushing order, they went ahead and shipped the speedometer gear.

I ended up ordering a Timken 5202 bearing and seal kit from RockAuto.  The set was $11 which was cheaper than the bearing alone from CJ Pony parts.  I installed the bearing from this kit and the seal from my Ford  M7000A rebuild kit using a pair of 3/4" sockets and a rubber mallet.

I then installed the speedometer gear which came from CJ Pony parts.  The black gear on the left is the new one which allows for proper speedometer readings even with gears larger than 3.50:1. 

The gear was initially confusing to me.  I needed a six tooth gear.  If you count the teeth going from one side to the other on the green gear, you count six.  However, that is not how they are counted.  You count the total number of teeth on the entire gear.  You can see where each tooth starts on the green gear below and if you count them all, you see there are eight and the black gear has six.

 

 

Sealing up a rebuilt transmission is one of those 'leap of faith' steps.  Until you put RTV on the mating surfaces and bolt it together, you can always double check your work.  Once it is closed up, that opportunity is over.  I looked over everything one last time and wiped down the mating surfaces and internal areas where it was possible.  I then started the reassembly.

 

The top plate goes on first.  I put a 1/16" bead of RTV on the top of the case.  It is a little difficult to put the top plate on without messing up the RTV.  You place it down a little off center to the passenger side.  You then slide it to the drive side to engage the reverse/5th gear lever.  The bolts on the top then get torqued down to 14 ft/lbs.

 

 

I then put on the tail housing.  This is a little tricky as well.  While you slide on the tail housing, you have to guide the shift rod into the shift block which the actually shifter connects to.  Once it is in place, you then put a roll pin to secure the shift block and then tighten the bolts which hold the tail shaft to the case to 23 ft/lbs.

 

 

I then worked on the input shaft.  I tried the method described in the Tremec rebuild kit for setting input shaft endplay.  When I performed all the measurements, I found a .025" shim was needed but I only had a .023"  I bolted it together with the .023" shim but it did not feel tight enough.  I decided to switch to an alternate method of measuring end play.

 

With the .023" shim in place, I set the transmission on two buckets with the input shaft facing down.  I put a gauge on the tip of the output shaft, set it to zero, and then pushed in on the input shaft to see how much movement would be seen at the output shaft.  I took four measurements and had .010 movement each time when the expected amount is .002.

 

I took out the .023" shim and replaced it with the one originally in the transmission (.032).  I then repeated the process checking four more times.  Between each test, I'd spin the input shaft and give the output shaft a light tap with a rubber mallet.  This time, each test gave me a reading of .002".  Perfect.

 

I mounted the shifter but had a hard time with it.  The shifter would not allow the transmission to shift into reverse.  It is difficult to describe but there are springs which are on either side of the shifter which are inside the shifter housing.  They cause the shift lever to return to center.  They are so tight, you can't move the shifter far enough to the side to get it into reverse.  I'll save you the details on this one but I managed to get this fixed as well. 

 

So here it is..... seven months later.... my completed transmission!

 

 

 

After taking this picture, I realized I did not put on the original metal transmission tag.  I put it on a few moments ago.  I mounted it to the second tail shaft bolt down from the top on the driver side as it was originally.

 

Little Progress Aside From New Shifter

I called CJ Pony Parts this past Wednesday morning as they had not sent me an email indicating my parts were shipped.  The person I spoke with stated the parts were arriving to them that day and would be shipped out to me the next day.  Several days have past since then and I have no email stating they have shipped and they have not billed me for the parts.

I did purchase a shifter for the transmission on eBay.  It is similar to a Pro 5.0 shifter but made by SR Performance.  I picked it up for $50 which is a decent price.  It arrived in the mail yesterday and looks almost new. 

 

 

I plan on removing the handle currently on the shifter.  I've not decided what I'll use for the handle or knob.  I've some time to think it over as I still need to save up some money for the block plate, crossmember, fulcrum mount, and to have the current driveshaft shortened.